Frocktails Dress at Brooklyn Arts Hotel

I went to Melbourne Frocktails. I did, it’s true! I was a little surprised myself. I’m of the habit of signing up to things I’ve not really looked into or know anyone who is going. Still I’m yet to attend a random event I’ve signed up for and have anything but a wonderful time. I haven’t been able to do any night events for some time because of the ME/CFS, but with recent improvements, I made it. I’m going to give myself a hooray for that success. Pleased with self!

Frocktails: All Laid Out and Ready to Go. That Sounds Quite Rude. Promise It Was Just the Dress!

I was lucky to procure a ticket for Frocktails and as it got closer to the date I began to realise I knew a number of these talented seamstresses through Instagram and I’ve had sewing and movie dates with two in real life! So that put me at ease a little. Internet dating with seamstresses!

Flora Dress Insides

The talented Kat from All the Whimsical Things organised the event, and she was well deserving of flowers, cocktails and fabric for her wonderful efforts in organising such a special event.

Brooklyn Arts Hotel

I stayed at Brooklyn Arts Hotel which is my home away from home when I’m in Melbourne. All the staff know me (yes, my reputation and sewing proceeds me) and it’s always like returning to my favourite miniature castle where there is endless tea, toast and chatter if you are so inclined. They are always happy to oblige me when I get stuck in my dress with my zip and can’t wiggle my way out. Which happened when I got back from Frocktails and thought I’d have to sleep in my dress. And also the day before…

Now let’s move onto some  pictures of Flora, taken at St Peter’s and St Paul’s Catholic church on Saturday. I love churches.

The pictures are mixed in with some construction notes and wind swept hair.

The dress I made is the Flora from By Hand London. I purchased this velvet from Jen at A Piece of Cloth a number of years ago and it’s been sitting out of the stash and wrapped in tissue with its own shelf, it was so precious.

Flora Dress

The story behind the fabric was it was purchased from Liberty of London, around 50-60 years ago. Not a Liberty fabric per se, however another line they were selling at the time. It was in perfect condition, and had the most gorgeous nap to pet.

Flora Dress

With the help of Rennae from winding_bobbin and her cutting table, it took around three hours to lay out. The skirt is quite voluminous and needed to be cut on the bias to get the full length, to which I’d added an additional 15cm all round. I’m shy about my knees. I also used a beautiful silk satin from Joys Fabric Warehouse which I was able to cut on grain for the skirt lining and a black silk twill for the bodice.

Flora Twirls

I took my time, making a toile with curtain fabric which actually looked ok (!), completed a small bust adjustment to remove the fabric underneath these small beeewbs of mine, and added the 3cm length to the middle of the bodice.

Flora Dress With SBA Toile

I then waited at least three weeks to cut into the fabric proper to make sure that I was sure. Which I was, just needed to make sure.

Flora Dress Progress

Everything was hand basted before being stitched on the machine. I love hand basting. I loved making this dress. Whilst it’s not really time efficient for most of my projects, I shall be doing more as I start to explore all the silks, satins and laces. Must start saving for that…

Flora Dress with Memorial to the Churches Reverend

I can recommend using a roller foot to sew the velvet. I did a significant amount of research about sewing velvet and whilst many recommend using a walking foot, my local dealer of habby and notions, Heights Sewing Centre, suggested using a roller foot. It was 1/6th of the price and didn’t leave a mark on the velvet at all. Most happy. I thought cutting the skirt on the bias would cause all sorts of drama, but after a week it didn’t drop a centimetre, (although the same could not be said for the silk…).

Curls and Flower Crowns

I have to say there were no dramas making this dress, no tears. I did unpick one small part where the bodice joined the skirt and the dart/pleat join was off by about 3mm. Just not acceptable. And then when I restitched it I accidentally caught up the skirt fabric but after a deep breath and some more unpicking it was fine. No marks on the velvet and the dart matching bothered me no more.

Flora Dress and Silk Horse Hair Hem

I used horse hair in the hem which I LOVED. No circle skirt should go without it. Volume, swirly, twirling. It promises and delivers all these things. I also made a Coppelia Cardi by Paper Cut Patterns. This was number 4. Fits all the cardi criteria.

Flora dress with Copellia Cardi

Frocktails itself was a wonderful night held at the Ra Bar on Collins St.  Plus I lasted a whole 2 and 3/4 hours. A record for the sleepy damsel who had already napped for three hours that afternoon.

Flora Dress with Necklace Detail

It was a little dark at the venue so photos were hard to get, but I finally met my gorgeous friend Jen from The Stitcher and Gatherer. We had hugs and cuddles and chats in the corner. It was so lovely to finally meet her and know that she is that wonderful woman I know off IG and we are friends. I also meet with some other gorgeous ladies. So challenging not to call them by their IG names! But the faces were all smiling and familiar. Rennae and I are now having semi regular sewing dates. All the yay!

Frocktails: Jen, Bar Money and Rennae

The signature cocktail, The Seam Ripper, was delicious (even though I’m not supposed to have any alcohol, it was worth it), the food was amazing and the wait staff were fabulous.

Christian Louboutin Window

The Bar was also situated next to Christian Louboutin. I was frocked up, didn’t have my credit card on me and I was going to sweep into their store and try on their shoes. I did. Nude pumps with a 10cm heel you shall be mine one one day. 40th birthday coming up, making own dress, requiring shiny shoes for high tea. I shall return. It was like angels were kissing my feet. They also had a rather fabulous window that (with permission) we photographed. Oversized sewing spools, needles, pattern pieces, teddy bears and scissors. It’s as though they knew we were coming and needed an enchanted entrance. I did note that they bolted the door as soon as we walked out. Obviously they were intimidated by my Flora dress and 7 year old patent leather shoes. I can be scary like that…

Flora Dress

I had a wonderful weekend away, didn’t completely overextend the credit card, and am looking forward to catching up again.

Until next time, curtsey.

Post Script: As Bruce was taking taking photos at the church, a man was standing back watching us. I was concerned he thought I might be not showing the proper respect for the church and it’s history. I’m always mindful of these things. I caught his eye, but he waved at me to continue so I twirled until I almost fell over. Which for the record was 2.5 times.

Wedding in 1957

After that he approached us and from a plastic bag he produced an aged photo album. He opened it and showed me a picture of him and his wife on their wedding day, 58 years and one week ago standing on the very steps where I was twirling. He showed me the pictures of his wedding and his beautiful wife who has since passed. I cried.

The Wedding Door

His photos were so beautiful and to share that moment with me was one of those unexpected poignant moments in time where generations cross over and a special moment is shared. I didn’t catch his name, he was attending a ceremony at the church which is why he was carrying his photographs. But he did give me permission to take this photo and share it with you. I wish I had have caught his name…

Photos by Bruce. Flower crown from Gardens of Whimsey. Tights from Wolford. Shoes from Camper. Lace on undies from Lily Pond. Necklace from Quirk Collective.

International Anna Party – Queue Excitement

What a wonderful turn out we had for the #internationalannaparty !

International Anna Party – Your Hosts with Fur Kidlets. Panda Wine has no idea what lies behind her.

Thank you so much for attending our little soiree, and twirling with us over the weekend on Instagram. What a delight to see so many familiar and new faces join in to celebrate Elle’s birthday party and the sewing collective as a whole.

International Anna Party

As Elle described is so succinctly: Best. Party. Ever.

International Anna Party

Elle, Ute and myself would like to thank you all for joining in the frivolities. To each and every one of you, your presence not only lit up our virtual ballroom, your conversation sparkled and was full of genuine admiration of frocks and unquestionable dedication to the craft that is sewing.

International Anna Party – Tea Time

Such a pleasure to see so many Anna dresses in a assortment of lengths and fabrics. And all the compliments! Everyone looked amazing and it was fascinating to see the many interpretations of the one pattern. If I hadn’t just clocked up number 17 (!) I would have already started another.

International Anna Party

Congratulations to Hannah for taking out first prize. What a stunning women combined with a spectacular dress. You must go and read more about it here.

International Anna Party

So after enjoying the warm fuzzies and silver sparkles, I’ll leave you with some links from our esteemed guests.

Hannah

Onnaballoona

By Hand London

Charlie

Veronica Darling

Clarinda

Chuleenan

Jagged Rose

Meg

International Anna Party

Curtsy,

Photos by Tash and Bruce. Nani Iro fabric from The Drapery. Shoes by Camper. Flower crown from Etsy. Wallpaper by Ellie Cashman

Hello lovelies!

Todays post is a slight departure from normal. However I’ve got some very exciting news to share! If you already follow me on Instagram, you will well be aware of the upcoming party, but for those who are not, I’d like to share this with you today.

International Anna Party

I’ve spoken previously about the wonderful friendships I have made over the past year, in particular my dearest Elle and Ute. My friendship with these amazing women has not only resulted in late night/early morning conversations, sewing support and the general joys that come with friendships. It has also meant that two very special dresses (here and here) have come to be, and that more than usual they are original and steeped in friendship loveliness. I can not wear them without being cheerfully reminded of how they came to be and who they they have intricate ties to.

International Friends! Pips – Ute – Elle

So. The three of us wanted to celebrate our friendship, and as it just so happens, Ms Elle is celebrating a birthday shortly. But how were we to celebrate across continents and timezones, and have dresses and tea and festivities? After much discussion, emailing and some wizard planning on Elle’s part, we decided upon the International Anna Party. To celebrate Elle’s birthday and the beautiful sewing community that I am so blessed to be a part of,  you are formally invited to join us for the #internationalannaparty

The festivities are being held on Instagram, so if you don’t have an account yet but have been thinking of joining, now might be the time! I’ve only seen kindness and fabulous sewing in this little corner of the internet. Plus, there are gifts to be given as part of our celebrations.

Pop over to Elle’s blog lauralovespugs@blogspot.co.uk for some of the finest terms and conditions you will ever  have the pleasure of reading.

If you’ve been thinking of making your own Anna, now is the time. In the spirit of full disclosure, I have made 16 Anna dresses (14 reside and have conversations with each other in my wardrobe, two have made the long journey to Berlin) and on a cost per use basis of the pattern, I think I’m coming up trumps!I can’t deny that there may be more Anna’s in my future, queue concern, however as I have not yet required an intervention thus far, I think I’m ok. Although I do need to invest in some new hangers…

Here is a little Anna inspiration for you, if your wondering how you can work the pattern.

Berlin Anna Dress

Vintage Anna Dress

Vintage Anna

Too Tight Anna (Berlin Now)

Gothic Anna

Gothic Anna with Split

Vintage Anna at the Beach

Look forward to seeing you all at the party.

Curtsey

I feel so blessed to have made such gorgeous friends of late.

The English Dress – Marbella

I met Elle around a year ago during the 2014 round of Me Made May through Instagram and since then we have become firm friends. In the way of international friendship triangles she is also linked to my dear friend Ute, who gifted Elle a present for Secret Valentine 2015 (I gifted Ute). Ute also sent me the fabric for my Berlin dress. The three of us are now officially sewing sisters, our knowledge shared and our friendship growing, with parcels being sent to and fro across the great divide.

The English Dress: Marbella – The Berlin Dress: Anna

One day, the three of us will meet up at a little cafe over earl grey tea and cake (followed by gin and blueberries) and talk about the wonders of sewing, and friendship and worldly events. Until then there are ways and means of keeping in touch and maintaining our friendship. Keep an eye our for our Anna Party coming up in July hosted by all three of us to celebrate Elle’s birthday. All the Anna’s are coming out to play!

The English Dress – Marbella – The Parcel

Elle was kind enough to send me this beautiful fabric, along with yummy pig/pug faces, a heirloom piece of lace and my beloved headscarf which I can not wear enough.

The English Dress – Marbella, Beautiful Pockets

The English Dress – Marbella – Bodice Detail

It’s a stunning piece of fabric with saturated colours that reflect my colour palate. No filter required. Deep burgundy, pinks and greens printed on a beautiful linenish cotton fabric, it needed to be sewn into something special. I would normally reach for the Anna at this stage however I am trying to extend my dress collection. And I’m so glad that I did.

The English Dress – Marbella

I choose the Marbella dress from Itch to Stitch. I’ve been looking at this pattern for some time, I love the design lines, the boatneck and the tulip skirt. And excellent pockets. It’s also a great silhouette to let the fabric shine.

The English Dress – Marbella

There is the option to partially or fully line the dress, I choose the latter and made the extravagant decision to line in sand-washed silk after petting some at a local fabric store. The colour was a perfect match and I think that once silk has been used for lining, poly just can’t be entertained as an alternative. Usually I line my dresses with cotton which has proven to be comfortable and easy to wash. With the wisdom of the seamstress who sold me the silk, I hand-washed it in wool mix before cutting. This technically means I can hand wash the entire dress when I need to. So I can pass on the dry cleaning this time.

The English Dress – Marbella

In terms of construction notes, some other seamstresses noted that some of the width needed to be taken out of the back of the dress. I reduced each of the back darts (both bodice and skirt) by 2cm at the waist and also took an extra 1cm out of each side of the centre back seam. I also graded out the skirt width from the hip to hem to the next size up as I find tulip skirts need a little more space at the hem line to accommodate my long stride. The fit was then perfect.

The English Dress – Marbella

The PDF was a dream to put together. It also has a couple of rather innovative and interesting features that all the PDF’s should embrace. You can turn off “layers” on the pdf for sizing which allows you to print just the one size (or multiples if you want to grade between). So when tracing it reduces the risk of marking the wrong lines.

The English Dress – Marbella

You can also select your cup size for the bodice (between A – D) so the need for a SBA or FBA for many may be avoided. I used the B cup and it fit perfectly across the bust.

I would recommend making a toile before cutting into your precious fabric. I was able to make my adjustments by fitting on myself and sticking myself with pins and transfer them to my traced pattern, which resulted in a beautifully fitted dress.

The English Dress – Marbella

The fabric was beautiful to sew, with just a little bit of fraying. Using a gentle hand and a good press, it came together beautifully with the silk.

I first wore this to see the Doug Anthony All Stars. I laughed so much that I got a stitch in my shoulder. I didn’t even know that was possible! Paul, Tim and Flacco were as politically incorrect, foul mouthed and poignant as ever. Feminist poetry remains a strength and age, disability and broken bones has not taken the edge off their sharp tongues. This is my favourite. It’s also not representative of their normal material.

Marbella Dress off to see DAAS

I also managed to eek a Sorbetto top out of the remnants, again lined in silk. Such happiness!

Sorbetto Top

Do you get to share your love of fabric across the oceans?

Curtsey,

Photos by Bruce. Fabric gifted from Elle. Tights from Wolford. Shoes from Camper, boots by Duckfeet. Hair flower from Gardens of Whimsey.

Vintage Anna Dress

I stumbled across this fabric 2-3 years ago at an old stone and mortar mill beside the Barwon River. A beautiful old bluestone building full of vintage fabrics, antique quilts and the lovely Jen. Sadly the physical space is not longer, after being bought out by foreign investors. Luckily Jen still runs A Piece of Cloth online and has set up a wonderful home studio which I’ve had the honour of visiting.

Vintage Anna Dress

The bodice is hand block printed cotton from the 1930’s and the skirt is a sheer Edwardian from 1900’s, both in immaculate condition. When I purchased them, I had no idea what form they would take, my only thought at the time was that I couldn’t leave them behind.

Vintage Anna Dress

They sat nestled together in my stash for a considerable period, coming out occasionally for a special viewing and then returned to fold.

Vintage Anna Dress

One day in December 2013 I was feeling overwhelmed and sad, so I reached for my favourite fabrics again and on this occasion I decided that in order to shift my mood I needed to create something special. So many times I’d tried to match each piece with other pieces but they never seemed to coordinate with anything other than each other.

Vintage Anna Dress

I was able to piece the Anna bodice with a few inches of scraps to spare. Stitched and hung on the wall with the Edwardian fabric pinned as the skirt, I stood and admired the potential outcome.

Vintage Anna Dress

I tried to use as much hand work as possible in order to preserve the delicate fabric and to honour its age and history.

The skirt is simply three gently gathered rectangles leaving no waste. All seams were french seamed, with satin bias on the neckline and waist seam. And my first hand picked zip! I followed Tasia’s tutorial here. I remember it was 47 degrees in the middle of a 6 day heat wave when the zip was picked, no air-conditioning but much satisfaction when it was completed.

Vintage Anna Dress – Russian Tea Leaf Reading

This dress is a firm favourite, not only for its age and beauty but also because creation its enabled me to channel my sorrow on a miserable day and make something that is both pleasing to my eye and suitable for frolicking in the forest. 

It’s also a reminder to me that whilst I can’t control how I’m perceived by people, I can create pieces that are unique to me and make me happy to be who I am. I like for my clothing to have meaning and memory.

Vintage Anna Dress

I also feel like a faerie when I wear this dress. All I need is some gossamer wings…

Vintage Anna Dress

Curtsey.

Vintage Anna Dress

Vintage Anna Dress

Vintage Anna Dress

Pips xxx

Photos by Tash and Bruce. Fabric purchased from A Piece of Cloth. Shoes from Camper. Tights from Wolford. Flower pins from Gardens of Whimsey.

(Note that the photos in the forest are from a year ago when photos were taken for a project that has yet to come to fruition and my hair was wild and auburn. Additional photos taken at a family lunch two weeks ago.)

Berlin Anna Dress

Friendship  is a wonderful thing.

Berlin Anna Dress

Someone once told me that if you can count five really good friends then you are doing exceeding well. This day I can count four. The number sometimes fluctuates but the baseline remains the same. Today it looks to be going up!  Making friends as an adult seems so much more difficult than when we were younger. Add into the mix some long standing health issues* and a good dose of quirkiness, I often find myself isolated from the general population and excluded because I just don’t fit in. I know, sad face, but it’s true.

Berlin Anna Dress – Wind Swept Style

In the past year since creating this space, I have encountered many like minded sprites, some might even say bosom buddies. I have been delighted to discover blogs and instagram accounts that inspire me, had conversations with seamstresses and seamsters across the world about all things stitchy and participated in some international gift giving that have delighted me both in the giving and the receiving.

Berlin Anna Dress

In February I joined in the Secret Valentine Exchange and was given Ute as my Valentine. She organised the project along with Sanaei, and there was much international love posted across the seas. At the time I recall asking Bruce if had any objection to my making a valentines gift for a woman I’d never met in Germany to celebrate the love of craftiness and if he felt a little weird about it. He replied that as long as he didn’t have to pay for it, there was no concerns. Love for all!

Berlin Anna Dress

Through this, I have made firm friends with Elle and Ute (we created a lovely little international triangle, Ute made a Secret Valentines gift for Elle).

Berlin Anna Dress

Ute was kind enough to send me some fabric that she saw at the market that she felt was autumnal me. It is a beautiful Japanese lawn in the most perfect colours. There was squeals and shouts of delight upon its arrival.

Berlin Anna Dress

I’d not so long ago decided to abandon the Anna pattern, considering I now have nine in my wardrobe and there are other dress patterns waiting to be explored. However as soon as I opened the parcel, it was decided. There is plenty time for retirement in future years.

Berlin Anna Dress

Straightforward construction and sizing, self made bias binding for the neck line and french seamed throughout. I could make this dress in my nocturnal slumber.

International friendship. Pen pals. Bosom buddies. Happiness. Wonderful. Joy.

Berlin Anna Dress – Partial Curtsy

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

Photos by Bruce. Flower crown from Gardens Of Whimsey. Shoes from Duck Feet. Tights by Wolford. Scenery by Portarlington. Cardigan by Parjie (Audrey in Unst).

* The antibiotics are still kicking my ME/CFS. Underlying bacterial infection, inflammation of the immune system that can’t be seen. Who knows? At this stage it doesn’t matter. I’m improving every day. Welcome me back to life.

Me Made May.

When Seamstresses and Seamsters across the globe take over the Instagram with images proudly displaying their incredible talent for creating wearable pieces of art.

At last count, over 284 citizens of the world had signed up here, including myself:

‘I, Pips from thegirlinateacup.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’15. I endeavour to wear me-made each and every day for the duration of May 2015’

A quick perusal of the wardrobe means I don’t think there should be any issues, however I really need to work on my night attire (thinking 1920’s lounge this week) and the scanties.

You can see my daily photo’s here or search #MeMadeMay2015.

So dust off the good mirror, and fingers crossed the lighting is favourable.

Curtsey

Pips xxx

Davie Dress

Hello lovely, beautiful Autumn! What a stunning time of year.

Davie Dress

There is something about the scent of the breeze and the sunlight though century old trees in the gardens which leaves me feeling positively giddy. It’s that, or a side effect of the antibiotics I’m on. Either way I’m deliriously happy and for the first time in a very long time feel an energy that has been misplaced for much too long.

Davie Dress

Whilst I’m currently not acquiring any new patterns/fabrics I did make a sly exception for the new Davie dress from Sewaholic. An unusually timed afternoon delivery of Art Gallery fabric from fabric.com and Sew Squirrel, had three boys running up to my room with a box unashamedly marked FABRIC in neon, and a sly comment from Bruce that perhaps my self imposed ban had been breached. I chose not to acknowledge directly, mentioned I hadn’t bought fabric since September last year (apart from the Liberty that was 1/3 funded by a gift voucher) and declared it a minor slip up ; ).

Davie Dress

Firstly, the fabric. I don’t often sew with knits, let alone drapey jerseys, so I was a little miffed (love that word) when laying it out that the grain line was in no way running the direction in which it was supposed to. No matter how I manipulated it, it was running off at at least 25%  off from the salvage line. I’ve not come across this before, but was reassured by a number of seamstresses on insta that it is not uncommon.

Davie Dress

I persisted, thinking that if it wasn’t wearable I could make it my new nighty, however it turns out that jersey is incredibly forgiving and I now have a beautiful Easter dress. I think if this was a woven it would have ended up in the quilting pile.

Davie Dress – Pools of Fabric

I cut a straight size 8, and didn’t add my usual 2.5cm at the waist. This was a) because the lengthen/shorten lines were not marked on the pattern and it would require some thinking and measuring on my part to place my line across the four pattern pieces and b) because there isn’t a seam across the waistline I thought the extra length would not be missed. Luckily with laziness and a little foresight (critical thinking and I have not the time to consider this!) it all worked out. I also omitted the key hole given the fabric was so busy (thanks for the advice Ms E!).

Davie Dress

Some notes on the pattern. I think I could definitely go down a size next time. The photos show excess fabric pooling at the back. I’ll most likely send it through the overlocker to bring in some of the seams. I sewed View A with the cap sleeve and additional length. It has a lovely flare at the bottom which picks up nicely in the breeze.The shaping as always is perfect for Pips.

Davie Dress

I overlocked all my seems and overlocked and turned once the hem and arm holes. I really liked the finish on the neck. Using a woven bias, it stops the neckline stretching out and gives it a really stable shape. I happened upon some Hello Kitty Liberty bias I made last year in my stash which was perfect. Total machine sewing time was about 40 minutes! And after I checked that the fabric was behaving itself in dress form, I even ventured out on Saturday to pick up some top stitching thread.

Davie Dress

So the verdict is I love it! I wore it today, and as Ned Flanders once put it so succinctly: “It’s like I’m wearing nothing at all”. He really does know his fashion speak.

Davie Dress

The dress also sits nicely over my Granville shirt, so next I plan to make View C in a stable black ponte. With the shorter sleeve and skirt length and some top stitching, it should replace my currentRTW winter dress.

Davie Dress – Out Takes!

I talked Bruce into dragging my favourite chair outside for the photos but I seemed to suffer from the sun glare. 5 minutes in the sun, and my skin starts to bubble (literally!). My recent drivers licence has me looking positively vampiric. I wish I had’ve dyed my hair, worn black lace and dark lipstick that day. The goth in me shall never move on!

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

Photos by Bruce. Tea cup gifted from Parjie and R from a deceased estate. Tights from Wolford. Shoes from Duck Feet. Locket from Den Supply Co. Hair pieces from Gardens of Whimsey.