Elysia Bow Dress: Part 2

I was so in love with my first Elysia Bow Dress but it was a little bit on the short side so I decided to go ahead with the expansion pack and make the longer version. Verdict: I love it more than the first. It covers my knees and has extra swish which I am in love with. The hem line in 14.45 meters long! Sure, it took me 13 hours to sew by hand, but listening to my favourite podcast Bang On and Chat 10 Looks 3 definitely helped pass the time.

It was just as an enjoyable sew the second time around and I definitely felt more comfortable with my seams. I loved having the stronger contrasting colours and that made it a little bit easier to sew.

This time I still went with Liberty but chose Mitsi in two contrasting colours from The Strawberry Thief.

The swish of this skirt is undeniable. There is so much fabric in this dress. For fabric 1 I used 6 meters and fabric 2 and 3, 4 meters. So that is a whole lot of Liberty in that skirt. I used a bit more that was recommended as my fabric was 136cm wide (fabric recommended was 140cm wide) and I also bought an extra 50cm of fabric 2 and 3 to make the bias binding. But honestly, I love Liberty, so I’m not complaining.

I’d like to have a go at making this in silk organza with a slip underneath maybe for frocktails. But for now I think my sewing machine needs a little rest from all the Bow dress mayhem. There is a Bow skirt and a Flower Patchwork top that I’m interested in having a go at. Let’s face it the Roberts Wood patterns are AMAZING!. They are on the expensive side of the for PDF’s. Mine came in at $51 when they had a 15% off promo but I think the cost is definitely worth it given the expertise in the drafting and the work put into the instructions. It usually retails for 34 pounds. The only problem is they don’t come in multi sizes, you have to pick the one size and hope for the best. The way the pattern is drafted you couldn’t go multi size anyway.

For now, I think both Bow dresses will be in high rotation in my wardrobe. I think the harness will be a good choice to highlight my curves. A little more Liberty never hurt anyone.

Curtsey

Pips

Pattern: Elysia Bow Dress by Roberts Wood

Fabric: Mitsi tana lawn from the Strawberry Thief

Makeup: By Mecca

Shoes: From Scarlett Jones

Tights: By Wolford

Button Necklace: By Kirsty Sharp

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Elysia Bow Dress: Part 1

I was captivated when I saw the Elysia Bow dress by Robert Woods from Katiemakesadress on Instagram and knew I had to made one up in Liberty. I choose two different shades of blue in Wiltshire and only used two fabrics instead of the recommended three as I had a vision of what I wanted. As it turns out the effect is subtle but I kind of like that. My next version would have more contrast.

Now this dress is not for the faint of heart. The short version has 108 pieces and a 8.5 mt hem whilst the extension has 148 pieces and an amazing 14.45 mt hem all by which I did by hand. I find it very meditative. Pop on a good pod cast (several years of Bang On) and I’m good to go for 10 hours or so.

I chose to sew the 14/16 based on my bust measurements. The pattern gives you the finished measurements for the garment and I went for the size that gave me about 10 cm of positive ease. I did have a bit of a freak out moment when sewing the front bodice and it looked tiny and I thought there was no way it was going to fit me and that all the sewing was going to be a waste of time but I trusted the measurements and I’m glad I did because it came up perfectly. Next I want to try the harness to pull it in a little and give it a bit more shaping.

The dress itself isn’t complex but requires precision cutting and sewing. I won’t say that all my seam lines match up perfectly, there are a few that are a couple of mm out, but it’s hard to obtain perfection when there are so many pattern pieces to line up over four seams. I tried basting the seam but found that just using a pin and sewing over it was just as effective.

For the dress I broke the cutting out of the pattern and the fabric and sewing down over a number of days as there is much work involved and overall it took me 7 days from start to finish.

I was in no rush to make this project so I took my time. Just for interests sake I thought I would keep a track of my time spent on the varying aspects.

Day one: 1 hour cutting out the pattern, 3 hours cutting out the fabric

Day two: 3 hours sewing front bodice and yoke

Day three 5.5 hours sewing back bodice, bias for neck, left sleeve sewn and attached to bodice

Day four: 5.5 hours right sleeve sewn and attached to bodice, sleeve bindings, first skirt tier (about an hour unpicking after sewing one of the pieces upside down!)

Day five: 6 hours tiers 2 and three attached to tier 1, tier 4 stitched together. Lots of unpicking on the 4th tier.

Day six: 2 hours 15 min sewing stitched on bottom tier of hem, attached skirt to bodice, button holes and buttons. 1 hour 15 min to pin hem 3 hours and 15 min to hand stitch hem.

Day 7: 3 hours 45 minutes to finish hand stitching hem.

So overall the sewing time was 22 hours 15 minutes to sew the dress and 8 hours to hem it. Not an insignificant amount of time. It was such an enjoyable sew though! The pattern was beautifully drafted and went together perfectly. It was like putting together a simple jigsaw puzzle that required attention but not so much that you couldn’t listen to a pod cast to keep yourself company. The instructions were really clear and when I had a question about the bias binding Roberts Wood got back to me really quickly.

My only comment is that this dress comes up quite short on this 6 foot tall lass so I need to wear a layer underneath to maintain modesty. I’m really glad they put out the extension pack that lengthens the dress by a decent amount and takes the dress to knee length for me. The volume of the skirt is not insignificant and makes for wonderful twirling of which I am a big fan.

I would say that although you could likely sew it faster than I did, having ME/CFS I pushed myself too hard when sewing this and had to spend several days on the couch resting to gain back my strength before cutting into my next one. I just found myself lost in the moment sewing the rows of patchwork. It was almost addictive seeing the rows come together. Such an enjoyable sew.

So much so that I immediately cut out my second Bow dress again in Liberty using the extension pack and love this one even more. See the next blog post for more details. I’d highly recommend this dress if you are looking for something a little different and that will hold your attention whilst you sew.

Curtsey

Pips

Pattern: Elysia Bow Dress by Roberts Wood

Fabric: Wiltshire tana lawn from the Strawberry Thief

Makeup: By Mecca

Shoes: From Scarlett Jones

Tights: By Wolford

Button Necklace: By Kirsty Sharp

Strawberry Thief in Brooklyn

Strawberry Thief in the Wild

Strawberry Thief in the Wild

Once a year I escape the chaos…

Strawberry Thief Sewing Corner

Strawberry Thief Sewing Corner

To sleep, stitch, eat, drink, rest.

Strawberry Thief an Me

Strawberry Thief an Me

To be taken care of by wonderful women who fill my soul to the brim.

Strawberry Thief and the Bunnies

Strawberry Thief and the Bunnies

To mingle with the unknown over breakfast and drink countless cups of tea.

Strawberry Thief Gelfling Style

Strawberry Thief Gelfling Style

And sip wine in bed after venturing out to the pictures deemed too arty for my local theatres.

Strawberry Thief and Snow Domes

Strawberry Thief and Snow Domes

And solitude. So rare and so soothing.

Strawberry Thief with Headscarf and Handmade Bag by Friend

Strawberry Thief with Headscarf and Handmade Bag by Friend

Then I return to the fold. Missed and missing all.

Strawberry Thief with Strawberry Swirl

Strawberry Thief with Strawberry Swirl

Until next time. Until next summer.

Strawberry Thief Mirror Image

Strawberry Thief Mirror Image

Curtsy.

Strawberry Thief V Back

Strawberry Thief V Back

photo-3

Nobody puts Strawberry Thief in the Corner

Nobody puts Strawberry Thief in the Corner

Photos by myself and Bruce. Dress made from Strawberry Thief Liberty Tana Lawn, a 40th Birthday present. Pattern, Flora skirt ByHandLondon attached to modified Anna/Elisalex bodice. Location at Brooklyn Arts Hotel, my home away from home. Vintage jewellery from JeanJean Vintage. Shoes by Camper.

Strawberry Thief

Strawberry Thief

Liberty Granville Shirt and Anemone Skirt

Vintage Liberty Collection

Vintage Liberty Collection – *Swoons*

Another day, and more gorgeous fabric! It seems like I’ve come to the end of my vintage Liberty which is sad in some ways but also wonderful to see new life given to fabric that has been stored and loved for many years. I’ve saved every scrap, and have taken to weave wrapping for gifts and hoarding hexagons for a quilt. I can’t recall ever being so attached to fabric before.

Today I received a beautiful thank you card, thanking me for my thank you letter from my benefactor. This of course requires another thank you note to thank Ms J for thanking me for my thank you. I discovered that I was made custodian of three generations of fabric, *swoon*. This is sewing love. And this is why I love sewing and the sewing and fabric community.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

As soon as this fabric was presented to me (in a most queenly fashion followed by squeals of delight) I knew it was destined for a shirt. Fabric often speaks to me (just don’t tell my doctor) and I was overcome by the print and the softness of the Liberty. It could not have found a happier home than mine.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Another Granville shirt from Sewaholic. The only adjustments I need to make to Sewaholic patterns are to add length in the body and sleeves. Then the fit is perfect. Dream patterns.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

I’ve still got a little way to go until I perfect my plackets, but I’m happy with the result this time.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anemone – Praying for Fabric

And the skirt! Completely forgot that I’d made it months ago. How does one do that? Trying to embrace new shapes and expand my handmade wardrobe I ventured out to the Anemone pattern from Deer and Doe using some left over viscose purchased from The Fabric Store.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Several versions of these have popped up in my instagram feed and I had planned to experiment with the more fitted, higher waist skirt and shift away from the usual fit and flare. I think after seeing it in photos I’d wear it to work. And perhaps give it another press. It did spend the last 6 months balled up in my tops draw… Eek.

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

Vintage Liberty Grainville and Viscose Anenome

It’s a little corporate for my usual style but with the the addition ribbons and flowers I think I’ve captured my quintessential Pipsie style. That high waist does keep everything in place whilst allowing continued breathing and eating. The pattern was made  straight from the envelope without adjustment. Sadly it was that long ago that I can not recall the size…

Vintage Liberty Grainville

Vintage Liberty Grainville

And how could anything look bad with that shirt!

Vintage Liberty Grainville

Vintage Liberty Grainville – Baby Got Back

See that waist to hip ration? That’s  why Sewaholic patterns are made for my bosom, waist and derrière measurements.

Vintage Liberty Grainville

Vintage Liberty Granville

Deer and Doe Anemone Skirt

Deer and Doe Anemone Skirt

The skirt was fully lined, and I love the peplum on the sides. A rather pretty point of interest that is quirky and doesn’t add volume to the hips.

Vintage Liberty Grainville

Vintage Liberty Grainville

So next time you see any vintage Liberty here, it should be in the form of hexagons. Unless of course anyone has a stash they would like to gift to me. I would be happy to oblige.

Happy weekend lovelies!

Curtsey

Pips xxx

Photos by Bruce. Fabric gifted from the estate of Ms J. Hair flowers from Gardens of Whimsey. Shoes from Camper. Tights from Tightology.

Liberty Granville

Hello, and curtsey to you all.

I’m a little on the excited side today. In fact, positively beside myself, to the left. I think the word I’m after is proud. After feeling as though I had peaked much to early this year (the first week of January to be exact) with this outfit, I’m pleased to say that I have achieved my most technical sewing feat to date. I am, I’m sure in Jane Austin’s mind, accomplished.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Some said it was brave, although personally I thought it a little reckless using Liberty for a new shirt pattern given it is the third shirt I’ve ever stitched together. But I’m remaining true to my promise to Bruce and the Fabric Gods: I shall not purchase any fabric unless absolutely necessary. Given this was the only piece of fabric that had the right yardage and wasn’t irreplaceable vintage, it seemed like the perfect choice. The stash does not lie.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

I’ve previously made up the Meissa blouse from Paper Cut patterns but the shape just wasn’t me. (Note that I made this one up in Liberty as well, but have since pulled it apart to be repurposed for quilts and other projects). Then Tasia from Sewaholic published the Grainville shirt which is fitted to provide definition and designed for the pear shape. My stay on purchasing patterns was promptly set aside for a full 2.5 minutes to allow for a swift purchase from Sew Squirrel.

Grainville Shirt in Progress

Grainville Shirt in Progress

I made my usual pattern adjustment of adding 2.5cm to the bodice length, and even though there were whispers that the sleeves were quite long, I added 2.5cm to the sleeve as well. I’m glad that I did. I’ve never had a shirt with sleeves so long in my life.  They feel, what’s the word I’m looking for… Almost normal. Such a peculiar feeling. I do have exceptionally long arms. No, really. They are that long. It’s the reason I feel so connected to the orangutang. We share that in common. Plus we both are blessed with goofy faces.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Construction was seriously straight forward. I followed the pattern instructions and used this tutorial from Sewaholic on attaching the collar and stand. Such a wonderful, immaculate finish. Can’t speak highly enough of it. I skipped top stitching on the princess seams at the back and on the yoke. My fabric was too pretty and too busy to worry about that. I also used french seams throughout, except for setting in the sleeves.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty, The Sleeves

Grainville Shirt, Liberty, The Sleeves

I adore this shirt. And I can wear it tucked in, something I haven’t been able to do since 1994.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Next on the list is a short sleeve version in a vintage Liberty. Cutting into that one may cause some nerves. But I must hold strong.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

I’ve also got the Oakridge shirt and the Archer shirt to try. My old style of shirt, knitted vest, skirt and tights may be making a return for Winter 2015.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty (Stitching Looks Less Wonky in Real Life)

Do you have a favourite shirt pattern?

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Grainville Shirt, Liberty

Curtsey and happy sewing to you all.

Grainville Shirt, Liberty, Country with a little Western

Grainville Shirt, Liberty, Country with a little Western

Pips xxx

Photos: by Tash and Bruce