Hello my dears!

It’s been a wee while. I’ve been a wee bit tired (ok, extreme exhaustion with the addition of insomnia, how thoughtful is my body to couple these two at the same time), and it was time to take a break from everything. Lesson mostly learnt, must slow down to an even slower pace than slow pace previously established. And posh hotel room service is much more delectable than hospital food. So next time I’m booking into the Windsor. Thank you to all the lovely people who sent universal energy and happy thoughts my way. I got warm fuzzies.

Now, back to the real purpose of todays post. My blogging is very much in it’s infancy (8 months going strong “cartwheels in skirt”), although I feel as though I’ve been writing it from “within” for the past few years. I only discovered the online sewing community after having an iPad mini pressed upon me as a present (I was very much anti tablet tech prior to purchase, very much pro tablet tech post) and have been an avid pursuer of the Internets on location (usually the couch) ever since.

As part of finding my footsies/niche/voice I quickly discovered a myriad of sewing and creative blogs. So. Many. I thought if I added my own blog/voice it would be overlooked on the webs what with my loosely based writing structure of waxing lyrical on old times, inspiration for new garment and then the photo shoot with some hilarious outtakes. I have however found some readers which again gives me the warm fuzzies. Curtsies and waves to all my bloggy reader friends. But I digress.

The Sandpoint Top

The discovery of independent pattern companies and PDF pattern availability  shifted me quickly away from the Big 4 (not that there is anything wrong with them, there is just so much EASE!) and into the realm of indie patterns that were more my style. A little cute, a whole lot of quirky and some that are specifically drafted for bodies of the pear shaped variety, please and thank you Tasia from Sewaholic.

One of the interesting aspects of these indie companies and patterns is that prior to release they are tested by volunteers in the sewing community. There was a significant amount of discussion and contention some months ago about the ins and outs of pattern testing. I never had an issue with it, however like many was most interested in testing a pattern myself.

I think the desire to pattern test has something to do with sitting down with a number of pages, a project and a red pen. Possibly I was a teacher in a past life…

So how did I get chosen to pattern test the Sandpoint Top? I’m a long time lurker on the Monthly Stitch. When Helena from Gray Day Patterns put out the call for pattern testers I politely and quietly put my hand up via survey detailing my sewing experience and enthusiasm and was then contacted by Helena asking if I would like to participate. YES!

So. Onto the details and review.

Sandpoint Top, version A

The Sandpoint Top is described as being “a loose fitting t-shirt with a dramatic cowl back feature. There is a shoulder band behind the neck to secure it. In a fluid, stretchy knit it skims the body and drapes beautifully down the back. It can be made up in a comfortable cotton/rayon knit or made dressier in a slinky jersey. You can make the shoulder strap in a contrast colour to highlight that fun feature too!”

Now, I’m not a big knits kinds of girl, my only recent foray into stretch was with the Coco from Tilly and the Buttons which has encouraged me to try more sewing with this fabric. I do also like to step out of my comfort zone (wovens, I shall never leave you…), and am also a devotee of the cowl neck. I’m just yet to make a pattern that includes one. Until now. There shall be more. I promise.

Backwards style with bonus funny face

The PDF was a breeze to put together. A nice touch was that the separate front and back pieces could be taped separately without having to join due to overlap of the pattern lines (look at the pick, I think it makes more sense than my words. Less taping is my friend).

I made view A with the V neck in a size M. View B is more of a slight scoop neck line.

There were no issues with cutting out the pattern pieces and pattern matching my stripes was a breeze. Helena has included some notches on the side just to ensure you match up your knit fabric distribution evenly.

Pattern Matching Win!

Even though this is a reasonably simple make, I acquired some new skills along the way which resulted in some immense satisfaction. So proud of that V neck band. It would have been nice to know how to do this 15 odd years ago, but live and learn. It gives the top a very professional finish.

The band that goes across the back I accidentally attached to the inside shoulder seam, but it was designed to go on the outside seam line. I believe the instructions have been amended to clarify that this does go on the outside, however it still works the other way around. It is also possible to reverse the top and have the cowl at the front and keep the band at the back. I found that with the test pattern that didn’t quite work for me, the cowl kept inching upwards, but this may have been amended in the final pattern. I like the idea of the cowl at the front.

Neatly Finished Armholes

The arm bands were a neat technique that finished of the arm holes nicely. I was concerned a smidge about my cowl flicking out at the back so I put a couple of tacking stitches just to hold it in place. I also completed most of the stitching on my overlocker (serger) which made it a very quick make.

I’m really happy with the finish and look of the Sandpoint Top and it is definitely a wearable muslin. I wore it to work with a long black skirt and had many lovely complements, including from those who noted that I had side stepped my normal style of floral dress and cardi for a moment. I’m planning a black slinky jersey and my Mama has already put in a request for a stripy version for herself.

Congratulations to Helena for a really good, well drafted t-shirt that has some thoughtful details that separate it from the myriad of patterns out there!  I look forward to seeing more patterns  from Gray Day Patterns in the future.

The Sandpoint Top pattern is available for PDF download here for the very reasonable price of $8.95.

And you can see me on the Helena’s website here! Look at all those gorgeous women!

To see more versions and reviews, check out some of these links below:

zibergirl.com mysewingsuite.blogspot.com.au sewanneuk.blogspot.com.au

Curtsey for now.

Pips xxx

Disclosure: I received the original copy of the pattern for testing free of charge as it’s kind of necessary in order to test it. Once the pattern had been refined and released, Helena sent me a copy of the finalised PDF pattern.  I purchased my own fabric from Joys Warehouse. All opinions expressed are my own.

I have recently been reflecting on my sewing journey, and how since Me Made May I’ve found myself wearing more of my own hand made garments, and pondering on what I sew and why. I have sewn so many different pieces over the years including dresses (11 Anna’s at last count…) self drafted skirts, uniforms for a “classy” gentleman’s club (an experience I will never forget, oh my goodness those bewbs!), 50 hot pink rock’n’roll skirts in a poly that melted under my iron and the odd pair of pj’s for B1 and B2.

Liberty on Top and Bottom

One thing I have never attempted is the intimates side of garment making. When I think about why, what jumps out is the fear of the unknown (I know, how scary are knickers!) and reluctance to pour energy into something that was potentially going to disappear into dark recesses of time/space with no chance of return.  On a side note I choose to wear knickers, undies, or if I’m feeling particularly masculine, jockies. I cringe when I hear the “P” word and given that I can’t handle Nick Cave singing about getting fresh around a pair, I will never be a convert.

Knickers have always been one of those items that I’ve had difficulty fitting, having the bigger bottom and the smaller waist. For the last 7 years I’ve been a Bonds hipster girl, size 12. I’ve tried several fancier pants and even splashed out on a $50 pair in the hope that since they were stupendously expensive the leg elastic would stay on the right side of the cheek. Alas this was not the case, and they were so uncomfortable they ended up in land fill. I also tried the whale tailer once (also known by some of my friends as a G Banger. Really?!) and lasted half an hour before deciding that commando was a better option for me that night.

When I found Susan from Measure Twice Cut Once on Instagram with her sewalong #everyonedeservesprettyknickers, I thought that it might be an opportune time to add smalls to my collection of sewing accomplishments. I chose to make the Charlotte knickers which are a woven cut on the bias with elastic on the waist and leg openings. Using my favourite Liberty fabrics I was able squeeze two pairs out of half a meter. That works out to be around $10 a pair, with scraps left over for my Liberty hexagon quilt which at this point of time is said still scraps. Out of curiosity I did a little lurking on the Liberty website, and discovered they sell similar for around $46 Aus. So I consider that I’m actually making money by saving so much. This is one of the reasons my maths teacher loved me so much at high school.

When cut out and flat they look like lovely large pretty nana knickers and once the elastic is attached, they look slightly less large. This is of course is due to the fabric being a woven and not a stretchy, so for comparison this is my current Bonds v’s Charlotte.

I’m always skeptical about new knickers and their intentions when worn so for my first outing I used my traditional knickers (Charlotte)/tights (Wolford)/knickers (Bonds) combination and was frolicking around home with no issues. I then moved onto the more risky combo of just skirt and knickers (and top coverage of course!) where again everything stayed where it was supposed to. The ultimate test was wearing them under jeans which can lead to all sorts of complications and some seriously creative moves to delodge any wandering fabric. These knickers are so good that I actually forgot I was wearing me made knickers, queue Ned Flanders: “It’s like I’m wearing nothing it all…. nothing at all…. nothing at all”.

So they have passed all my rigorous tests and I am now endeavouring to replace all my Bonds with Charlottes. They did take a little getting used to as the fabric doesn’t cling to the skin as traditional lady knickers do, and initially I did feel as though there were two rotti’s in a sack riding in then back*. I imagine it may also be a little like a gentleman transitioning from briefs to boxers but the effect happening with the junk in the trunk not the tackle at the front**.

Next on my list of pretty things to make is the bra. I’ve been following Maddie’s foray into sewing intimates and will most likely begin with this pattern from Oh Lulu. I just received this bra (with matching knickers, for a treat. I dream of having matching underwear…) so I can study the construction (read: so I could have a pretty hand made bra to motivate me to make my own).

Oh Lulu Set

So here’s to pretty knickers for all! Visit Susan’s web page here for the Charlotte and other styles. You can also find a free pattern here which she generously made available when recently  featured in Peppermint magazine.

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

* Imagine if you will two very over exuberant  Rottweiler puppies in a sack (not coming to any harm of course, they are just hanging out with ample oxygen), which is also reflective of what it usually looks like when people wear leggings as pants which is unconstitutional.

** I think I would have made an excellent English/Health teacher given my love of non standard descriptors for everyday bits and bobs. Ok. Vagaina’s and Penis’s and Buttocks. See, I’m not afraid!

PS. This is not a sponsored post. I purchased my own pattern/fabric/underwear myself because I do believe that everyone deserves pretty knickers and am eternally grateful to Susan for drafting such a wonderful pattern! My over exuberance is all my own.

Pipsie Day at the Vineyard. A New Tradition. Saturday.

What a wonderful week!

The Anna Dress Day 2 with Bonus Kermit Legs. Sunday.

This year I participated in One Week One Pattern (#OWOP2014) which was facilitated by the lovely Jane from Handmade Jane. If you go to the comments on this page you can see what some of the other sewcialists on the inter webs were up to this week.

Liberty on a Coffee Break. Monday.

I will keep it short and sweet. Here are the pictures from Day 1 – Day 7. A special thank you to all my photographers who may have thought I was a little loopy, but assisted me in my quest to document my dress for the week. (I got some very funny looks from colleagues with the photo’s taken in front of the lifts… Really they should have known it was just me being me!).

My Favourite. The Vintage Anna. Tuesday.

This is of course, none other than the Anna dress, pattern from By Hand London. Fabric is a mixture of Liberty, Vintage from A Piece of Cloth, and designer ends from Tessuti.

French Lace? Yes Please! Wednesday.

A big thank you to everyone who also followed my antics on Instagram. It was really lovely to see everyone else’s projects through the lens of the camera/iPhone.

Liberty, oh Liberty! The Original Anna. Thursday.

I think I could have gone further, and kept it going for another couple of days, but I got stuck into making knickers and forgot about everything else.

Keeping it Casual and Comfortable. Friday.

Curtsey

Pips xxx

One of the first crafty courses I enrolled in post B1 and B2 was Sashiko, run by Kimono House at the Nicholson building in Melbourne. I remember being nervous because 1) I was leaving the kids for a whole day (shocking I know) and 2) because I’d signed up by myself and felt I’d been out of the grown-up sphere too long and wouldn’t have anything to talk about other than premie twins, sleepless nights and poo.

the original

I needn’t have been concerned as the class was filled with lovely women who also had kids (shocking, again, I know! I don’t have a huge number of friends (kind of full stop) who have kidlets, plus I failed at mothers group (too quirky), so usually assume most families are made up with the addition of fur kids) and I spent the day learning this new craft and starting the foundations for my indigo quilt.

Sashiko for Bruce

I first got the idea for Bruce’s doona cover when I saw this project from the Craft Sessions. Poor Bruce has lucked out in the crafty Pipsie department, and is still waiting on a much wanted super person costume. So this was my project to redeem myself.

Sashiko for Bruce a year on. Still looking good!

I purchased this amazing piece of Italian linen from Tessuti fabrics last year and I would definitely consider this an investment piece. I think they are getting some more in this year, just be prepared to hip and shoulder me out of the way. Using the cost per wear calculations (or in this case cost per sleep) it is practically paying for itself, and should last at least 10 years. Linen has the beautiful effect of becoming even softer and more lovely with each wash. And has the additional bonus of being wrinkly in its natural state, so does not require ironing. Huzzah!
Using the sashiko stitch, I hand stitched the circle using a sashiko thread that I hand dyed across the circle, with a red centre and a blue/grey larger circle.

I think this took me about 6 months to make, and was used as therapy. Snuggling under this gorgeous fabric on the couch, I ran stitches across and relaxed as it came together. It was such a calming piece to make, and was quite meditative once the flow began. Hiding the actual project from Bruce wasn’t particularly effective, but the final design wasn’t revealed until the big birthday.

In a testament to its popularity, it has been on the bed ever since.

Panda Wine photo bomb

I need to finalise the design for the next doona cover which is a slate grey linen. I’ve drafted a frangipani floral design, but haven’t managed to take it any further yet. Life. Its so busy.

Do you use craftiness as a substitution or complementary therapy for therapy? (that made sense in my head so I’m going to leave it there. Congratulations if you understand!).

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

PS. I’m participating in One Week One Pattern facilitated by Hand Made Jane this week. The idea is to utilise the same pattern for a week, and show your styling and the versatility of said pattern. You can follow my dress-ups on instagram @magdalenesmuse. Here is todays outfit…

The Anna Dress

This week was my week. A week to regroup and find some much needed breathing space. Being the forward planner that I am, I managed to schedule in too many activities and not enough down time, which lead to me having more down time and less sewing time than I had wished. But such fun!

I started officially on Sunday with a faery tale photoshoot of my favourite dress on location down the Great Ocean Road. I believe we reached a maximum of 10 degrees so I was amusing the bushwalkers/runners with jumps and skips to keep some semblance of warmth in my body, whilst taking intermittent sips of tea from an empty teacup.

the great ocean road

On Monday, I went to a special screening of Pretty in Pink for Craft Victoria. I’d forgotten how much of an influence Andi had on me in my younger years and how I still hold a number of her values today. I must have watched it every week for a year when I was 12, and then annually there after, however I haven’t seen it since the arrival of B1 and B2. And whilst they love the Princess Bride, I don’t think Pretty in Pink is quite their cup of tea yet. But how delicious is James Spader! I was equally repulsed and entranced by his chest. Andi should have ended up shacking up with him. And for the record, I loved her prom dress.

At the movies – pic via Meet Me at Mikes

Tuesday morning I had a most unexpected breakfast with 2 very lovely women. Kate Kosek who is a graphic and textile designer from Brooklyn and Catriona Mitchell, founder and editor of luminary.com. I’d stayed the night at Maggie’s, and although sad to to have caught up with her on this occasion, I was spoilt to spend part of the morning with Catriona and Kate.

Brooklyn Arts Hotel

Kate is currently visiting Australia to launch the spring/summer 2014 collection designed by Gorman incorporating graphic art work by Kate. Such a treat to have meet the artist AND have a private showing of all the pieces over a cup of tea and toast (of sorts… we had clothes draped over the dining table and wing backed chairs).

While the prints and shapes of the clothing are a little out of my comfort zone, I fell in love with this pattern which to my untrained and unartistic eye reminds me a little of art deco. Sadly, after spending half an hour in Gorman and trying on everything (literally) I settled on the t-shirt as the print and shape was the only one that suited.

I just don’t do billowy loose fitting clothes, and the more fitted ones were the wrong shape for someone with hips. But how gorgeous is it! I’ve worn it twice already, and every time I look down at my chest, I smile. Here’s to trying new things. And meeting lovely people over breakfast.

And loving it a little more

You can see Kate’s work here on instagram, here at her blog, and on Gorman’s website here.

Catriona was also involved in a special project, documenting women and their female role models. You can find my face here and more about the projects she is involved in here. She was really lovely. And she celebrates brave women and bright ideas. Extra lovely!

Catriona Mitchell

I was going to keep the morning to myself, but there was too much goodness so I had to share. And I was on a very happy high, what with movies, conversation and tea with toast. Until 2 pm when I cordially crashed and went to bed. Such is life.

On the sewing front, it has been a little hit and miss. Which is strange. I haven’t made this many mistakes in a long time.

I made a Coco dress from Liberty jersey, and layered it over a lace dress which was layered over a black slip to keep my bottom classy and warm. Flower crown from Wit and Bloom on Etsy. Pretty.

Coco worn to Pretty  in Pink

Another Anna dress had me in tears by 3pm on the day I wore it due to the corsetry nature of the bodice (I took it in 2cm, I need not have….) so this little pretty is off to Berlin shortly. I also made another Coco and through some magical gift I currently employ, managed to sew every seam with the overlocker with one right side to one wrong side. After careful inspection it became apparent there was a very clear right and wrong side. Sigh.

corset dress

And the bombshell swimsuit is currently sitting in a zip lock back until I can figure out how to overlock it without the whole thing being munched and requiring unpicking. Sad face.

So that is it for me today. I had another adventure this week that involved these boys, which had me in fits of hysteria and also tears of admiration streaming down my face. Viva 90’s humour and prescription medication.

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

Please note this is not a sponsored post. I used my hard earned credit card to purchase my Gorman top, and managed to lose my overnight bag in the process. Bless the girl who was assisting me in Gorman. She was most helpful.

How glorious is cake!

I made this cake on the weekend after being introduced to it by Pip from Meet Me at Mikes as part of her newsletter, Feeling a Bit Sh*t.

Pretty Cake

This is a very pretty cake, and one could almost say too pretty to eat. And a challenge to slice, most definitely.

It has zip and tang, sweetness and light, vegies and nuts (rhubarb and almonds) and accompanied by cream and yoghurt makes a perfectly sensible and guilt free breakfast.

Roasted Rhubarb

One of my favourite stories about cake is here. I too have been known to be the god of cake. Be prepared to snort when you read it, and think of me. I’ve also been known to deconstruct a good passionfruit cream sponge to get the perfect ratio of cream/cake/icing which leaves a very sad and decrepit pile of not quite cake behind. It also gets me into trouble when that cake is not my own, and others were expecting to eat it with all three elements in their original form. Oppsie.

More Cake

But I digress. This cake. I ate from top to toe. Delish. Plus I grew my own rhubarb. How clever! Or should I say how resilient is rhubarb. And it looks very fancy. The recipe can be found here. Rhubarb upside-down yoghurt cake. Don’t change anything as it is perfect the way it is. Go forth and make!

Care to share your favourite cake?

Curtsy.

Pips xxx

Being a tall lady is fraught with challenges when it comes to 1800s architecture and clothing oneself. Head bumps on doorways aside, finding pants that are long enough, sleeves that go beyond the wrist and waist lines that don’t end up underneath the boob line in ready to wear (RTW) clothing; these have been a challenging aspect of my adult life. I understand that it is also difficult for the petite lady at the other end of the spectrum, however it is far easier to shorten than to lengthen. For reference I’m 184cm tall, and when I wear heels, I tower. And speaking of numbers and sizing, my wardrobe goes from a size 1 to a 14. These numbers just don’t mean anything anymore.

I once worked at a store called Tall Lady around the year 2000 where pants were left un-hemed and long so they could be taken up for each individual, t-shirts had long arms, bodices hit the true waist line (of a tall lady) and jacket sleeves were lengthier and could be lengthened further. You see were I’m going. Oh, and the shop fit was also designed with the tall lady in mind. A desk that I didn’t have to bend over! Suddenly I no longer had to wear mens 501 jeans just to have my ankles covered. American jeans became my friend. I also recall having to listen to George Michael on repeat. One album, 8 hours. Not my favourite part.

Things in RTW have changed a little, but we still shop for clothes based on out-of-date sizings for body shapes that are perhaps suitable for 2% of our population. When I previously stumbled across a top whose fit was close to good enough, I’d often invest in 2-3 just so I could have something that was comfortable and didn’t display my belly to the world. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, if it’s your style. It’s just not mine. Go the belly.

And in re-engaging with my seamstress ways, I find myself with the confidence (developed from reading other blogs and tutorials and trawling the Internets) to alter all of my patterns not just in length at the hem line, but by making proper and true adjustments of lengthening by 2.5cm at the waist line, extending shoulder seams and grading between sizes. It’s not quite couture, but my goodness it fits! And when something fits, one always feels a little bit more fabulous.

Enter the Bel and Gabby combination from Sewaholic.

The Belcarra blouse pattern can be found here and the Gabriola skirt pattern here. Also check out some of the other gorgeous versions that have been popping up around the Interwebs just over here.

the Alannah Hill Bel from #mmm2014

I’m currently experimenting (fabric wise) on my 5th Bel blouse. It is such a well designed pattern, again specifically aimed towards the pear-shaped ladies so that removes one adjustment I normally need to make. My only alteration was to lengthen the bodice at the waistline by 2.5cm, and this blouse is the perfect fit. Past season Alannah Hill fabric win! This fabric also won my heart and is destined to be another Bel for Parjie, and a Saltwater Spring maxi for myself.

the skirt evolves into blouse

I was also recently talking to Jen from A Piece of Cloth, lamenting that my favourite skirt made from a 1920s silk cotton is no longer wearable due to my waistline no longer reflecting that of a 18 year old Pips. She suggested I make it into a top, and oh my delight when I discovered I could cut out both the front and back pieces without adding a seam, and then use silk crepe de chine for the raglan sleeves. I also managed to do a very questionable job of binding on the sleeves with very limited scraps.

the Gabby goes to work

Happy days and a little dance. Possibly my most well worn skirt is now reincarnated into my favourite blouse. With matching head band of course.

the back of Bel with bonus crinkly Gabby

The beige Gabby was my first toile, and for some reason I needed a serious size down from the size 8 I originally cut. (I’ve previously cut a size 8 in Sewaholic for dresses and tops, and I’m sure my measurements corresponded to the 8 at the time of cutting the skirt, but I don’t trust my memory at this stage. Not when I keep finding glad wrap in the fridge…..) so the seam matching isn’t great. For my next, I cut a size 6 pattern which is better sized for me. I also added 7cm to the hemline. I have obtained full swish factor 10. (I did try to lengthen at the “lengthen or shorten” line, however it threw out the lines to much, and I was happy to have a little extra volume at the hemline.). The skirt really hugs the hips and then does a gorgeous flare at about knee length resulting in wonderful volume. Kittens and small children could get lost under there.

vintage Japanese cotton Gabby 7pm on Friday Night

I originally attached the waistband, but then I remembered waistbands had never really been my style and this was no exception, so I whipped it off and created a facing using the top yoke pieces, the result of which I was very happy. Attached, under-stitched and then hand-slip-stitched down, it is a neat and tidy finish that also sits a little lower on the hips, which I prefer.

always happy in a bay window

I’ve also put together a lace Bel, flatlined with a lining, and sheer at the sleeves, with bonus threads! A vintage Japanese cotton Gabby, a floor sweeping black viscose Gabby that swirls and twirls like nothing else (I will blog this one later, along with the top I made). And there will be many more. The skirt is great for winter with tights underneath, and I’m looking forward to some summer versions in lighter cotton, to shade my pins from the sun.

that thread!!!! Embracing the zen. And white bra straps to finish the look…

Just for reference, I’ve managed to make the skirts out of 3m of fabric, I think the pattern recommends a little more.

the casual look

Do you have a specific pattern crush at the moment?

Curtsey.

Pips xxx

PS. as you would expect, there is much raising of the skirts when ascending and descending stairs, and I’m constantly stepping on my skirt when trying to stand up which results in me bobbing up and down and doing a strange dance to try and locate some fabric free floor. All completely worth it. And as such long skirts are not on trend at the moment, I get lots of remarks, and have had people ask if I was an opera singer based on my dress. If only they could here me sing…