Some projects feel extra special from the very beginning, and this one definitely does. I’ve just finished sewing The Assembly Line Tulip Dress in pale blue Hello Kitty Liberty Tana Lawn – a fabric that you can only buy in Japan. It was kindly picked up for me on a recent trip by a woman I met at Sew Seasonal (thank you again!). This fabric is such a treasure, and I was determined to make the most of it.
I bought 5 metres and managed to eek out not only the Tulip Dress, but also a pair of matching Charlotte knickers – because how could I resist a co-ord moment with something so rare?
For the dress itself, I cut a size small, which according to my measurements gave me around 5 cm of ease at the bust and waist. The silhouette is simple yet striking, and I love how wearable it feels. Since Liberty Tana Lawn has such a soft, drapey hand, I added a tulle petticoat underneath to give the skirt a touch more volume – and it really makes the tulip shape shine.
Styling-wise, I’m keeping things playful: I’ll be pairing my new dress with my red Mary Janes from Scarlet Jonesand my Francie cardigan from Lilypond. The pale blue and red together feel cheerful and summery, and the Hello Kitty print adds that perfect dose of whimsy.
This dress makes me smile every time I put it on, and I can already tell it’s going to be in heavy rotation over summer. Cute, comfortable, and just a little bit cheeky – everything I want in a handmade dress.
There’s something deeply comforting about sewing for the seasons — leaning into colour and texture while the world outside cools down. My latest make, the Liberty Natasha Tiered Dress, felt like just that: a little winter bloom to brighten a chilly Melbourne day.
Made in Clementina Liberty Tana Lawn, one of the stunning special edition prints celebrating Liberty’s 150th anniversary, this dress had a sense of occasion before I even picked up my scissors. It’s a combination of Poppy and Daisy, boasting a nostalgic floral charm, alongside Clementina, an embodiment of Art Nouveau. I wore it to Sew Seasonal, a gorgeous get-together of around ten passionate seamstresses at The Cabinet Bar in the heart of the city. We chatted fabric, clothes, and travel over drinks — a perfect winter’s afternoon surrounded by kindred sewing spirits.
Of course, I couldn’t resist going the full ensemble: I made matching Charlotte knickers (as is my tradition) and a headscarf in the same print. The whole look felt joyful, feminine, and just a little bit cheeky — exactly the spirit of Liberty for me.
This is actually my second version of the Natasha Tiered Dress — my first was sewn in Liberty Wiltshire at Sewaway. It’s such a lovely, floaty shape that really shows off the fabric. I made it in a size 14, though I had to guess as there wasn’t any sizing info on the envelope (!). Thankfully it worked out beautifully.
One very special detail: I decided to take an early dip into my 50th birthday gift — my dreamy new Janome Skyline S7, who I’ve affectionately named Lady Sable. She’s not officially mine until November, but I couldn’t resist taking her for a spin. I used her to sew a secret line of decorative stitching along the hem — subtle and only visible if you know where to look, but oh-so-satisfying to me. I love that hidden personal touch. Something just for me.
I’ll be tucking Lady Sable away now until November so I still have something beautiful to open on the day. But I have a sneaking suspicion she’ll be leaving her quiet, stitched signatures on many future makes.
One final cherry on top? Through the Sew Seasonal group, I may have found someone heading to Japan in August who’s kindly offered to pick up some Hello Kitty Liberty Tana Lawn for me. Fingers and toes crossed!
A huge thank you to Laura for organising such a relaxed and delightful afternoon. The smaller group meant we could actually sit, connect, and really chat. I’ll absolutely be going back — it was a balm for the soul and a celebration of all things handmade.
Until then — may your bobbins be full, your thread never tangle, and your makes bring you joy.
There’s a quiet kind of magic in bias-cut garments — the way they drape, move, and mould to the body without clinging. The Alessi Dress by Tessuti captures that magic beautifully, and sewing it in a soft wool made it the perfect transition piece for cooler weather. It’s elegant, uncomplicated, and exactly the kind of dress I want to reach for again and again.
The Pattern
The Alessi is a midi-length, bias-cut dress with clean lines and minimal fuss. It features a bias-bound neckline and armhoes, shaped back darts for subtle definition, and a beautifully flared hem that sways just so when you walk. No bust darts, no side zipper — just clever pattern cutting and a flattering shape that does the work for you.
This is my kind of minimalist: modern, wearable, and gently tailored without being too fitted. A similar fit to the Sadie Slip dress which I so adore.
The Fabric
I sewed my Alessi in a lightweight wool from Tessuti that I picked up in their recent sale — warm without being heavy, with a soft hand and beautiful drape. It’s a bit of a departure from the usual Liberty I use, but it worked wonderfully. The bias cut gives it fluidity, while the wool adds structure and warmth — ideal for layering in winter.
The Sewing Process
This is a project that rewards slow, mindful sewing. I let my wool rest flat overnight before cutting to let it settle on the bias. I stay-stitched the neckline and armholes immediately to prevent any stretching, and took my time handling the cut pieces — bias cuts love to shift if you’re not careful! I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene. I successfully made two Alessi dresses in Liberty Tana Law at Sewaway on the Kings birthday weekend without it so I risked it with the wool. I think it paid off.
The neckline and armholes are finished with a clean bias binding (one of my favourite details), and the instructions were, as always with Tessuti, clear and well-paced. The back darts provide just enough shaping to avoid the dreaded “sack” look, while still letting the fabric drape naturally around the body.
And — one of the best parts — no zipper! The dress slips on easily, especially in a fabric with a bit of give. Fewer fastenings, more elegance.
I chose to overlock my seams instead of French seaming due to the bulk of the wool which in hindsight was the right decision. The directions have you overlock them, I prefer to French seam bias dresses. I hand stitched the hem listening to Gene Harris live at Maybeck Hall. A lovely way to finish of a cosy dress.
And can we pause for a moment to appreciate the pattern placement on the front. Complete fluke as I wasn’t paying any attention to detail when laying out my fabric, but a happy coincidence none the less.
Adjustments
I didn’t add any length to the pattern, I found it was long enough for my liking without alteration but note it looks longer on the models.
I let the hem hang for a day before finishing, just to allow the bias to settle evenly.
No alterations to fit — the pattern is beautifully drafted.
One thing I would note was that the pattern was copy shop only not AO so I couldn’t print it at OfficeWorks and when I tried to print it at home on A4 I couldn’t get the 100% to match up with the test box so I gave up and went into Tessuti and bought a hard copy of the pattern.
Final Thoughts
This wool Alessi has quickly become one of my favourite handmade pieces. It feels grown-up but unfussy, tailored but easy to wear. I can layer it with a fitted body suit or long-sleeve tee underneath, throw on a cardigan or coat over the top, and head out feeling instantly put together. I’ve even got to the nana stage of wearing a slip under dresses and yes they were onto something!
It’s proof that simple shapes, when paired with the right fabric, can be the most chic. I’m already planning another one for spring — maybe in a washed silk or cotton lawn. Did someone say Liberty?
Tips for Sewing the Alessi in Wool:
Let your fabric rest before cutting — bias cuts love to shift.
Stay-stitch early to avoid neckline or armhole stretching. I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene as recommended.
Handle your fabric gently and press as you go — wool is very responsive.
Let the dress hang before hemming for the most even finish.
Have you thought about making the Alessi dress this winter? If you do, comment below or tag me when you have completed your dress at @magdalenesmuse.
Happy sewing, Pips
Dress Pattern: the Alessi bias dress by Tessuti Patterns
Who knew I was a fan of the shirt dress? Not I until I recently made a purchase from the mothership at Liberty of London. I purchased a long sleeve Tana Lawn shirt below knee shirt dress and fell so in love that I promptly purchased a second one. Interesting for a seamstress I know! So I set about the challenge of finding/making a pattern to replicate the dress.
I put the call out to Instagram for patterns and got some great recommendations for shirt dresses but the closest one I felt to what I was wanting to achieve was Tilly and the Buttons Lyra dress as suggested by @sarahsewing. It had the collar and stand, button placket down the front and the skirt which could be lengthened. So it was a great starting block for my Liberty dress.
I started with a size 6 based on my body measurements and the finished measurements of the garment. This is a shirt dress that has a significant amount of ease which is exactly what I was looking for. And of course I used Mitsi Valeria Liberty Tana Lawn from the Strawberry Thief for my Toile. I used 5 meters and this included fabric for 1 pair of Charlotte Knickers by Measure Twice and a matching self drafted head scarf.
I knew I wanted a yoke on the back bodice so I created one by measuring 14cm down from the side shoulder seam and drawing a straight line across the bodice from side to centre back. I then added an inch to the lower back bodice fold line to create a pleat. When I traced these two pattern pieces off I added 1.5cm seam allowances to the new seam lines I had created.
For the the bodice I added 4cm to the length.
With the sleeves I knew I wanted cuffs so I used the Archer shirt sleeve to redraft the sleeve side seam and create the cuff keeping the original head of the Lyra sleeve. I used the size 16 sleeve and was able to draft a new sleeve with a cuff and placket. I added about 1-2cm of length (the Archer is already a very long sleeve) and whilst this is probably already just long enough I think next time I’ll add another couple of cm’s of length just because “sewing tall”.
I added 22.5cm length to the skirt to give me the same length as the original Liberty dress and ensured I had enough to give it a really deep hem. Folded 1cm then 8cm. Such luxury! I also added extra width to the skirt to a size 10cm to give it more gathers although I am thinking of removing some of it for my next version.
I ended up using 7 buttons, 5 for the front and 2 for the cuffs. I have some Arrow Mountain ones for my next version which I think I will be making for the Sew Melbourne Garden Party.
The thing that gave me the most grief was the collar and I have only myself to blame for not marking the notches. The collar stand didn’t come out evenly due to this so I’m not too happy with myself. Other than that, it looks fine if you are standing a couple of meters away!
So overall I’m really happy with this dress. The sleeves don’t have a tower placket but I can live with that. The cuff works and I think if I make the sleeve just a little bit longer I will be happy. The gathers on the skirt could be less but I can reduce that in my next version. My collar work is a bit shady but I can fix that with practice and by actually marking my notches and not going rogue. Plus, it has pockets! I see this as being an Autumn/Winter staple and having many more in my future!
I was so in love with my first Elysia Bow Dress but it was a little bit on the short side so I decided to go ahead with the expansion pack and make the longer version. Verdict: I love it more than the first. It covers my knees and has extra swish which I am in love with. The hem line in 14.45 meters long! Sure, it took me 13 hours to sew by hand, but listening to my favourite podcast Bang On and Chat 10 Looks 3 definitely helped pass the time.
It was just as an enjoyable sew the second time around and I definitely felt more comfortable with my seams. I loved having the stronger contrasting colours and that made it a little bit easier to sew.
This time I still went with Liberty but chose Mitsi in two contrasting colours from The Strawberry Thief.
The swish of this skirt is undeniable. There is so much fabric in this dress. For fabric 1 I used 6 meters and fabric 2 and 3, 4 meters. So that is a whole lot of Liberty in that skirt. I used a bit more that was recommended as my fabric was 136cm wide (fabric recommended was 140cm wide) and I also bought an extra 50cm of fabric 2 and 3 to make the bias binding. But honestly, I love Liberty, so I’m not complaining.
I’d like to have a go at making this in silk organza with a slip underneath maybe for frocktails. But for now I think my sewing machine needs a little rest from all the Bow dress mayhem. There is a Bow skirt and a Flower Patchwork top that I’m interested in having a go at. Let’s face it the Roberts Wood patterns are AMAZING!. They are on the expensive side of the for PDF’s. Mine came in at $51 when they had a 15% off promo but I think the cost is definitely worth it given the expertise in the drafting and the work put into the instructions. It usually retails for 34 pounds. The only problem is they don’t come in multi sizes, you have to pick the one size and hope for the best. The way the pattern is drafted you couldn’t go multi size anyway.
For now, I think both Bow dresses will be in high rotation in my wardrobe. I think the harness will be a good choice to highlight my curves. A little more Liberty never hurt anyone.
I was captivated when I saw the Elysia Bow dress by Robert Woods from Katiemakesadress on Instagram and knew I had to made one up in Liberty. I choose two different shades of blue in Wiltshire and only used two fabrics instead of the recommended three as I had a vision of what I wanted. As it turns out the effect is subtle but I kind of like that. My next version would have more contrast.
Now this dress is not for the faint of heart. The short version has 108 pieces and a 8.5 mt hem whilst the extension has 148 pieces and an amazing 14.45 mt hem all by which I did by hand. I find it very meditative. Pop on a good pod cast (several years of Bang On) and I’m good to go for 10 hours or so.
I chose to sew the 14/16 based on my bust measurements. The pattern gives you the finished measurements for the garment and I went for the size that gave me about 10 cm of positive ease. I did have a bit of a freak out moment when sewing the front bodice and it looked tiny and I thought there was no way it was going to fit me and that all the sewing was going to be a waste of time but I trusted the measurements and I’m glad I did because it came up perfectly. Next I want to try the harness to pull it in a little and give it a bit more shaping.
The dress itself isn’t complex but requires precision cutting and sewing. I won’t say that all my seam lines match up perfectly, there are a few that are a couple of mm out, but it’s hard to obtain perfection when there are so many pattern pieces to line up over four seams. I tried basting the seam but found that just using a pin and sewing over it was just as effective.
For the dress I broke the cutting out of the pattern and the fabric and sewing down over a number of days as there is much work involved and overall it took me 7 days from start to finish.
I was in no rush to make this project so I took my time. Just for interests sake I thought I would keep a track of my time spent on the varying aspects.
Day one: 1 hour cutting out the pattern, 3 hours cutting out the fabric
Day two: 3 hours sewing front bodice and yoke
Day three 5.5 hours sewing back bodice, bias for neck, left sleeve sewn and attached to bodice
Day four: 5.5 hours right sleeve sewn and attached to bodice, sleeve bindings, first skirt tier (about an hour unpicking after sewing one of the pieces upside down!)
Day five: 6 hours tiers 2 and three attached to tier 1, tier 4 stitched together. Lots of unpicking on the 4th tier.
Day six: 2 hours 15 min sewing stitched on bottom tier of hem, attached skirt to bodice, button holes and buttons. 1 hour 15 min to pin hem 3 hours and 15 min to hand stitch hem.
Day 7: 3 hours 45 minutes to finish hand stitching hem.
So overall the sewing time was 22 hours 15 minutes to sew the dress and 8 hours to hem it. Not an insignificant amount of time. It was such an enjoyable sew though! The pattern was beautifully drafted and went together perfectly. It was like putting together a simple jigsaw puzzle that required attention but not so much that you couldn’t listen to a pod cast to keep yourself company. The instructions were really clear and when I had a question about the bias binding Roberts Wood got back to me really quickly.
My only comment is that this dress comes up quite short on this 6 foot tall lass so I need to wear a layer underneath to maintain modesty. I’m really glad they put out the extension pack that lengthens the dress by a decent amount and takes the dress to knee length for me. The volume of the skirt is not insignificant and makes for wonderful twirling of which I am a big fan.
I would say that although you could likely sew it faster than I did, having ME/CFS I pushed myself too hard when sewing this and had to spend several days on the couch resting to gain back my strength before cutting into my next one. I just found myself lost in the moment sewing the rows of patchwork. It was almost addictive seeing the rows come together. Such an enjoyable sew.
So much so that I immediately cut out my second Bow dress again in Liberty using the extension pack and love this one even more. See the next blog post for more details. I’d highly recommend this dress if you are looking for something a little different and that will hold your attention whilst you sew.
I’ve never really been drawn to gingham or checks but recently I find myself seeking out fabrics that are more geometrical than floral in flavour as I subtly shift my wardrobe style. I’ve seen a number of red checked dresses recently and knew I had to have one. What I didn’t know was how much I needed a pair of pantaloons to wear underneath. I remember getting to wear them once at Sovereign Hill as part of a school set up in the style of the 1800’s and knew that I loved them then. Why then had I not thought to make them again until now?
For the pantaloons I used the Emerson Pants by True Bias. I measured between a 14 at the waist and a 16 at the hips and after some advice from IG I cut a straight 16 and put the elastic in for the 14. I probably could have shortened the elastic a little more but am delighted to discover that without any modifications there is no report of camel toe. The linen came from Potter and Co and the anglaise trim was a gift from my god mother. Overall the pantaloons came together really well and whilst it’s unlikely I’ll wear them with any top that sits above my derrière, they will be great for tunics and dresses.
The dress was inspired by one I saw in England and I had originally cut out the Ellis dress by Merchant and Mills with linen purchased from Potter and Co. I had it in the back of my mind that there were rumours on the internet that the sleeves were a little on the tight arm lunch box lady size but I thought my arms to be not overly sized so I would be ok. I was wrong. So terribly wrong. I got stuck (this seems to be a familiar theme at the moment) with my arms half in, my head through the opening and the bodice stuck just above my bewbs. With a rotator cuff injury and being at home along it was a rough event getting out. I got rather cross and threw the bodice in the bin, found I had just enough fabric left over to cut the Hattie bodice and used a short cap sleeve and bias tape from the French Dart Dress by Maven Patterns and pieced it all together which worked out fine. Had I not been so cross, I would have compared the bodices to see if there was any difference in size (there was not) and taken the original sleeve off and added the cap sleeve to the Ellis bodice. I’ll do this next time when I make it in a black check. I finished off the neckline with some white linen bias tape that ties at the back making it user friendly to get on and off.
So I am really happy with the overall look. Bruce says I look like Raggedy Ann. When we went for a walk he said he hadn’t seen that many people stare at me before. I had many people come up to me and tell me I looked wonderful. Surely they couldn’t all be lying. Maybe a 40ish year old dressed up as a 4 year old is a good thing. One of my closest friends also confirmed the Raggedy Ann theme but in the best possible way.
That’s one of the best things about sewing. Getting to express yourself in ways you may not otherwise be able to. Curtsey.
Things have been rather heavy of late. Heavy heart, heavy mind, heavy body. Everything feels as though it’s a chore, but I’m hoping life is on the improve. I’ve missed the sewing community, although I’ve been sifting around the background peering from afar. And I’ve missed sewing, but for the past few months it has been out of my reach as I’ve sat in survival mode.
Salida Skirt
I started the Salida Skirt by True Bias at least 2 months ago and only finished it last week by bribing myself with the opportunity to acquire more fabric if only I stitched on the waist band and completed the hem. I’m slowly working on a new wardrobe, sizing up as I try to settle into my post menopausal body. I haven’t found the freedom or delight that some women find with this change, just frustration and disappointment. At the moment I’ve stopped actively fighting it, and am just sitting with it. I feel there is still a lack of acceptance around it for myself and I’m struggling with finding a new wardrobe that flatters and is comfortable. My old style no longer seems to work and I’m searching for new patterns that fit and look good. I’ve even resorted to buying some RTW of late as a gap stop. But there’s my white female privilege poking her little head out.
Importantly, I’ve finished the skirt which I adore and may well be the 70’s corduroy skirt of my dreams. I’ve made up the Salida skirt, view B, in a floral needlecord corduroy from the Fabric Godmother. It has a little stretch so whilst I made up the skirt in my size according to measurements, I took the side seams in 1cm each side to get a more snug fit. I also moved the skirt hook over a little further than instructed to pull the waistband in tighter to accommodate my waist to hip ratio.
The instructions were wonderful, no head scratching moments. And a video guides you through the fly zipper with ease. The details are also very thoughtful including front and back yokes, topstitching and fly which gives a professional finish.
I definitely plan to make another, perhaps in this amazing leaf green from Tessuti. These will be a staple in my work wardrobe as the feeling is cosy and warm with a little flare.
If you follow me on IG (here) you would have noticed that I recently went on a little holiday to Europe. 15 years in the making and it exceeded all expectations! 5 weeks of feasting, fashion and frivolity.
I was lucky enough to stay with one of my dearest friends in Berlin, travel to Paris for 4 days, head over to England for 5 days to hang out with one of my best sewing buddies and then back to soak up Berlin for another two weeks.
Whilst I got up to some spending at Liberty of London, my choices for fabric purchasing in Berlin and Paris were rather restricted (and thus subsequently restrained).
How lucky am I then to be able to recreate a little bit of Paris with this dress in my home town of Geelong? The fabulous Lilypond is a firm favourite in this small town of mine, specialising in all things French including vintage haberdashery, special homewares and the odd religious icon.
On one of her more recent trips to France, Mrs Kim bought back this delicious vintage rayon which I suspect was made in the 1950’s. I’ve missed sewing with vintage fabrics so was quite taken with the print and hand of this fabric.
The modern aesthetic of the Assembly Line Tulip Dress pattern has been calling me with its clean lines for structured fabrics. But I’ve discovered it also lends itself to a more drapey fabric with a vintage feel.
The bust darts coming down from the neck line sit really well, with the bodice being a looser fit than I usually wear. I sewed a size M noting that the dress would have some ease, and ended up taking out about two inches from the centre back seam to get a slightly closer fit. The skirt is a beautiful tulip shape which lends itself to both structured and drapey fabrics, I think. I lined the bodice in silk satin and hand picked the zip so it feels like a dream to wear.
In keeping with the French theme, Bruce captured these images at Lilypond this afternoon amongst the festive decorations and homewares. I think it’s made me look forward to Christmas this year.
This has to be the most joyful sew I’ve had in some time. The Cuff Top and Apron Dress from are patterns created by The Assembly Line which is based in Sweden. Their range of patterns clean and simple with well thought out design lines that really elevate each piece.
I stumble across the company when Sal from @sewingunlimited posted a pic on IG with her Cuff Top and I fell in love. I purchased without looking at the currency conversion as I knew I that I would take a hit with postage and am so glad I did. Obviously to make the most of it 2 items were needed (always being savy with my spending : ) )and I’ve always loved the appeal of an apron dress.
In making, the Cuff Top is noted as easy beginner and I would agree with that. I added some shaping at the waist (from my much loved Sewaholic Granville shirt).The top stitching is most satisfying, especially when you have the edge stitching foot for your machine. It also involves the clever use of elastic to get that wonderful cuff shape which involved a little bit of wrestling with the machine as mine was not very stretchy elastic. There were moments though when it was woman vs machine and the needle was at breaking point. Woman triumph in the end #thefutureisfemale.
The fabric I used for the top was purchased from The Drapery has a reasonable amount of structure which allows those cuffs to shine. And that colour! It really struck me when reviewing the photos how it acts as a chameleon and blends in with the green surroundings. One of the aspects that drew me to these patterns were the solid darker colour palates of the samples in mostly black, green and navy. Quite the step away from my usual floral confections.
The Apron Dress was noted as beginner and I’d say probably advanced beginner although the instructions were excellent, particularly as they would have been translated into English. I’m a very visual person, so I found the diagrams along with the notes really supportive and it came together beautifully. I made mine in Lithuanian linen, again purchased from The Drapery, and I was a little worried there may have been too much drape but I think it is well suited to the pattern.
The detail is wonderful, both the design lines on the side seams, those pockets which seem to go on for days, and the clever pleat at the back that really gives the waist good definition. There is also lots of top stitching which is subtle but ever so satisfying.
The only adjustment I made to the dress was too increase the size of the pleat at the back by moving the the buttons and button holes to pull it in at the waist a little more as that is my preference, harking back to the old fit and flare days.
My only sewing note with the dress would be to finish the front end of the straps before turning through to the right side as I didn’t see on the instructions how to finish them once they are sewn down to the front bodice. I ended up turning them up/inside 1 cm and then stitching down, but it could have been neater.
This just may become my winter uniform. I was going to place it aside for my trip to Europe, but as that is only a couple of months away (so excited/nervous) I think I’ll pop it in rotation now. The top will lend itself to layering as well so should keep me toasty warm in the frost that is now making itself known in the mornings. I have to mention as well that the comfort factor is high whilst maintaining a whimsical feeling stylishness. A huge achievement for me.
For sizing, each pattern comes in single size only and is only available in print. Based on my measurements I went with the M which was a European 40-42. The dress was a little on the large size but as it was so well designed I was able to easily adjust the button placement. I would say that their sizing is more on the generous size if you are in doubt.
For those that are local in Australia, Leslie announced that Fibresmith will be stocking the The Assembly Line patterns shortly and I know that Drapers Daughter in England also has a full compliment. Otherwise you can purchase the patterns directly from their website, The Assembly Line.
I can’t recommend these patterns enough. Next up on my list is the Tulip Dress and the Three Pleat skirt. I’ve also seen on their website that they sell fabric specifically matched for their patterns as well. If post wasn’t so prohibitive I would likely go down that path. Maybe I might do that when in Berlin…
Sometimes it pays to be adventurous, try new things, and be overwhelmingly surprised at how well it all comes together. Happy Sewing Days.
Note: This is not a sponsored post. I purchased all patterns and fabric and all opinions are my own and not paid. I’m just happy to share the sewing love I found.