Winter Bloom in Clementina – A Liberty Dress for a Special Gathering

July 27, 2025 by Pips

There’s something deeply comforting about sewing for the seasons — leaning into colour and texture while the world outside cools down. My latest make, the Liberty Natasha Tiered Dress, felt like just that: a little winter bloom to brighten a chilly Melbourne day.

Made in Clementina Liberty Tana Lawn, one of the stunning special edition prints celebrating Liberty’s 150th anniversary, this dress had a sense of occasion before I even picked up my scissors. It’s a combination of Poppy and Daisy, boasting a nostalgic floral charm, alongside Clementina, an embodiment of Art Nouveau. I wore it to Sew Seasonal, a gorgeous get-together of around ten passionate seamstresses at The Cabinet Bar in the heart of the city. We chatted fabric, clothes, and travel over drinks — a perfect winter’s afternoon surrounded by kindred sewing spirits.

Of course, I couldn’t resist going the full ensemble: I made matching Charlotte knickers (as is my tradition) and a headscarf in the same print. The whole look felt joyful, feminine, and just a little bit cheeky — exactly the spirit of Liberty for me.

This is actually my second version of the Natasha Tiered Dress — my first was sewn in Liberty Wiltshire at Sewaway. It’s such a lovely, floaty shape that really shows off the fabric. I made it in a size 14, though I had to guess as there wasn’t any sizing info on the envelope (!). Thankfully it worked out beautifully.

One very special detail: I decided to take an early dip into my 50th birthday gift — my dreamy new Janome Skyline S7, who I’ve affectionately named Lady Sable. She’s not officially mine until November, but I couldn’t resist taking her for a spin. I used her to sew a secret line of decorative stitching along the hem — subtle and only visible if you know where to look, but oh-so-satisfying to me. I love that hidden personal touch. Something just for me.

I’ll be tucking Lady Sable away now until November so I still have something beautiful to open on the day. But I have a sneaking suspicion she’ll be leaving her quiet, stitched signatures on many future makes.

One final cherry on top? Through the Sew Seasonal group, I may have found someone heading to Japan in August who’s kindly offered to pick up some Hello Kitty Liberty Tana Lawn for me. Fingers and toes crossed!

A huge thank you to Laura for organising such a relaxed and delightful afternoon. The smaller group meant we could actually sit, connect, and really chat. I’ll absolutely be going back — it was a balm for the soul and a celebration of all things handmade.

Until then — may your bobbins be full, your thread never tangle, and your makes bring you joy.

Alessi Bias Dress

June 29, 2025 by Pips

Sewing the Alessi Bias Dress – Wool, Warmth & Effortless Drape

There’s a quiet kind of magic in bias-cut garments — the way they drape, move, and mould to the body without clinging. The Alessi Dress by Tessuti captures that magic beautifully, and sewing it in a soft wool made it the perfect transition piece for cooler weather. It’s elegant, uncomplicated, and exactly the kind of dress I want to reach for again and again.

The Pattern

The Alessi is a midi-length, bias-cut dress with clean lines and minimal fuss. It features a bias-bound neckline and armhoes, shaped back darts for subtle definition, and a beautifully flared hem that sways just so when you walk. No bust darts, no side zipper — just clever pattern cutting and a flattering shape that does the work for you.

This is my kind of minimalist: modern, wearable, and gently tailored without being too fitted. A similar fit to the Sadie Slip dress which I so adore.

The Fabric

I sewed my Alessi in a lightweight wool from Tessuti that I picked up in their recent sale — warm without being heavy, with a soft hand and beautiful drape. It’s a bit of a departure from the usual Liberty I use, but it worked wonderfully. The bias cut gives it fluidity, while the wool adds structure and warmth — ideal for layering in winter.

The Sewing Process

This is a project that rewards slow, mindful sewing. I let my wool rest flat overnight before cutting to let it settle on the bias. I stay-stitched the neckline and armholes immediately to prevent any stretching, and took my time handling the cut pieces — bias cuts love to shift if you’re not careful! I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene. I successfully made two Alessi dresses in Liberty Tana Law at Sewaway on the Kings birthday weekend without it so I risked it with the wool. I think it paid off.

The neckline and armholes are finished with a clean bias binding (one of my favourite details), and the instructions were, as always with Tessuti, clear and well-paced. The back darts provide just enough shaping to avoid the dreaded “sack” look, while still letting the fabric drape naturally around the body.

And — one of the best parts — no zipper! The dress slips on easily, especially in a fabric with a bit of give. Fewer fastenings, more elegance.

I chose to overlock my seams instead of French seaming due to the bulk of the wool which in hindsight was the right decision. The directions have you overlock them, I prefer to French seam bias dresses. I hand stitched the hem listening to Gene Harris live at Maybeck Hall. A lovely way to finish of a cosy dress.

And can we pause for a moment to appreciate the pattern placement on the front. Complete fluke as I wasn’t paying any attention to detail when laying out my fabric, but a happy coincidence none the less.

Adjustments

I didn’t add any length to the pattern, I found it was long enough for my liking without alteration but note it looks longer on the models.
I let the hem hang for a day before finishing, just to allow the bias to settle evenly.
No alterations to fit — the pattern is beautifully drafted.
One thing I would note was that the pattern was copy shop only not AO so I couldn’t print it at OfficeWorks and when I tried to print it at home on A4 I couldn’t get the 100% to match up with the test box so I gave up and went into Tessuti and bought a hard copy of the pattern.

Final Thoughts

This wool Alessi has quickly become one of my favourite handmade pieces. It feels grown-up but unfussy, tailored but easy to wear. I can layer it with a fitted body suit or long-sleeve tee underneath, throw on a cardigan or coat over the top, and head out feeling instantly put together. I’ve even got to the nana stage of wearing a slip under dresses and yes they were onto something!

It’s proof that simple shapes, when paired with the right fabric, can be the most chic. I’m already planning another one for spring — maybe in a washed silk or cotton lawn. Did someone say Liberty?

Tips for Sewing the Alessi in Wool:

Let your fabric rest before cutting — bias cuts love to shift.
Stay-stitch early to avoid neckline or armhole stretching. I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene as recommended.
Handle your fabric gently and press as you go — wool is very responsive.
Let the dress hang before hemming for the most even finish.

Have you thought about making the Alessi dress this winter? If you do, comment below or tag me when you have completed your dress at @magdalenesmuse.

Happy sewing,
Pips

Dress Pattern: the Alessi bias dress by Tessuti Patterns

Fabric: Bensimmon Check wool by Tessuti

Boots: From Scarlet Jones. No longer available

Tights: Velvet deluxe 66 from Wolford

Locket: by JeanJean Vintage

Sew Melbourne Garden Party 2018

April 4, 2018 by Pips

The second annual Sew Melbourne garden party was held recently at the Melbourne Botanical Gardens on a day that complimented the frocks and frivolities. The sun shone, the weather was quite temperate and the music most fitting.

For the first time in what feels like forever, I had a very clear idea of what I wanted to create to wear. In fact, the idea (thank you Pinterest, unable to acknowledge photo further due to lack of links) had been sitting with me for some time. I even had the perfect linen purchased from The Drapery in my stash. My first thought was do I embroider or screen print. Screen printing clearly won as the event date crept closer and I was yet to cut the fabric. Given that it took two years from Pinning the dress and 2 weeks to design and construct I think we call all see why this is a hobby and not a commercial enterprise.

I’m not known for my arty skills but when I’m inspired by an image I can usually come up with an interpretation that sits well with me. The dress pattern was the Kim dress bodice by ByHandLondon and their Flora skirt. The screen print patterns were ones I had already created for previous projects, including a fern leave, orchid and a wonderful branch of leaves of a neighbouring tree. I just needed to replicate the red flowers which were essentially well placed skewed elliptical shapes. I was happy with the colours I mixed, but never ask me to replicate them. Except the bronze. The bronze came out of the jar as is. I can replicate the bronze.

I took the extra step of tracing the stencils and colouring them in as I was bored one morning and couldn’t find anything to entertain me that didn’t involve house work. Plus I was waiting for someone to fix my beast of an oven who was having conniptions (all sorted now without having to add a 900mm stainless steel cooking monster to landfill. Phew!). This made pattern placement and perspective incredibly easy and a method I will definitely employ again.

So very happy with the way the dress came together, and although going up a size in the bodice there really wasn’t too much room for cake to be had. (what genetic freak of nature grows bewbs at 42???) Speaking of which though, you must peruse this Gin and Tonic cake recipe that was shared on the day. So. Much. Delicious.

The afternoon was lovely. Being with one’s tribe is all sorts of wonderful. In addition to the sewing tribe there was a subsection of curly girl seamstresses as well. #splintergroupscanbeawesome.

I didn’t get too many photo’s on the day that had me looking other than a turtle trying to get its neck back into its shell so we took some more pic’s at the Geelong Botanical Gardens over Easter. garden3