Sirena Dress

May 18, 2016 by Pips

Allow me to introduce you to the Sirena Dress. Designed by Itch to Stitch, this is Kennis’ latest design offering from her range of patterns designed under her Itch to Stitch label. Given this is a formal review of the pattern I may down play my text, but fear not there will be outtakes at the end.

I have previously made up the Marbella Dress, (also known as the English dress due to the gorgeous benefactor of fabric) so I was happy to offer my sewing services to pattern test the new Sirena Dress.

This dress is something of a classic, with a high round crew neck line, options for bell or cuffed sleeves, inseam pockets and a subtle A-Line skirt that for most falls at the knee but due to my height fell well above. Scandalous! There are also options and instructions to line or not line the dress. Sirena Dress

As with the Marbella Dress, the bodice comes in a range of cup sizes from A to D which eliminates the need for SBA and FBA’s for many of the ladies. I cut a B cup size 6 and ended up grading out to an 8 at the hips. The PDF is also layered with sizes if your measurements fall into one size you can choose just that layer only and the one size will print. How wonderful for tracing! If you fall between two sizes as I did you can print just those sizes as well to allow for grading. Again, this is a fabulous option and I think should be part of all PDF patterns. There needs to be some compensation for sticking together 50 odd pages! (I accidentally taped all four options of cup sizes for the bodice, so really I’ve no one to blame but myself.) Sirena Dress

My first toile needed a few adjustments as I cut a straight 6. I had to bring the fabric on the bodice in at the waist at both front and back darts and I also took 1cm off each side of the invisible zip. I may size down to a 4 of my next version an grade out to an 8 at the hips. The skirt is a very subtle A-line. As it is a fitted dress I would recommend making a toile to check the fit before cutting into precious fabric. I added 2.5cm to the length of the bodice as is my normal practice. Beautiful lengthen or shorten lines included on both the bodice and the skirt. Sirena Dress

Believe it or not there is an Invisible Zip in that Centre Back Seam

So what do I adore about this pattern? I love the high neck line. It’s perfect to add a little nana lace collar which is what will occur when I make my next black version. I will also add lace to the sleeves to give it a little victorian feel. I have ordered a black and gold memorial locket from etsy to complete the look. The bell sleeves are just adorable. I think they will be a little hard to wear under a normal cardi so shall invest in some long sleeve tops which has always been part of my winter layering look. The instructions were very clear and detailed, and I felt this pattern was a little more challenging than your basic indie pattern which I really enjoyed.

Kennis has advised that from the feedback from testers the front neck line has been dropped 1/2 an inch and just a few amendments to the instructions so nothing that would really change the look of how my dress turned out. Sirena-Illustrations-03 Sirena-Illustrations-01

To see other versions of the dress visit itch-to-stitch.com. It was also great to see a large range of sizes tested for this pattern. Sirena Dress

Dancing Queen – The Real Me – Bruised Legs from Falling Down Stairs

The Flamingo Stance

Sirena Dress I really do love this dress, and I already have the fabric for my victorian gothling version. I may use a different skirt, most likely gathered and with lower pockets, and will definitely lengthen to below the knee.

The pattern for the Sirena dress can be found here

Pattern given to me as part of testing process by Kennis from Itch to Stitch. No other compensation was received. All opinions are my own.
Fabric purchased from Joys Warehouse and designed by Jen from A Piece of Clot
Shoes from Camper
Lace collar purchased from Lily Pond
Flower crown from Garden of Whimsy
Vintage cameo ring from Jean Jean Vintage
Photo’s by Bruce

Curtsy

photo-3

1920’s Pajajays

April 18, 2016 by Pips

Pajajays

Some days a lady just wants to be wrapped in pajajays that feel like cotton and silk and cashmere combined. That they look pretty, feel comfortable and evoke snuggliness which allows one to wallow a little in fatigue and weariness in style. And brings a wee smile to my face.

Pajajays

These were a very quick make. I used a vintage brushed cotton purchased from A Piece of Cloth recently. So snuggly.

Pajajays

The bottom is based on the Margot Pyjama pants from Tilly and the Buttons. I sized up two sizes (the recent expansion of fleshiness on the derrière means the need for extra comfort and room is heightened). I also widened the leg to reflect a more 1920’s beach pyjama style. And I chose elastic for the waistband instead of the recommended ribbon. The only time that this notion is acceptable. And the only time I will say this.

Pajajays

Pajajays cami back

The top is my cami pattern I have developed and made many over the summer. The lace is from a french bodice in the early 1900’s that had the main part of the camisole removed. That it has survived in such immaculate condition over 100 years is breathtaking. Lily Pond has a wonderful supply of antique laces from France. I have to limit my visits as otherwise I would buy ALL the lace.

Pajajays cami front

Tired and Fuzzy! We’ve all been there….

The fatigue is showing in my face in these photos, but this is the reality of my life. And given I’ll be wearing these constantly, these were the best pics I was going to get.

Such comfort to sleep in.

Pajajays

Pattern: From Tilly and the Buttons – Love at First Stitch

Fabric: purchased from A Piece of Cloth

Lace cami top lace: purchased from Lily Pond

Lace hair scarf: purchased from VintageCaf

Flowers: purchased from The Flower Dispensary

Photos: By Bruce

Curtsey

Ice Princess

March 24, 2016 by Pips

Ice Princess

Adventure Time has significantly increased the catalogue of princesses available, but nothing beats the high school Ice Princess.

Ice Princess

Except LSP. And Marceline (technically the Vampire Queen). And Princess BG when the mood strikes.

Ice Princess

I haven’t really worn this dress as much as I’d hoped so am thinking of cropping the skirt to make it midi length. Then I can wear it with black tights and cardi as part of my collected winter threads.

Ice Princess

18 degrees and overcast. Perfect Pipsie beach weather. Seriously. This is the only time I can safely wonder the beach without fear of spontaneous combustion.

Ice Princess

I also managed a dip at the end. First time in the ocean for four years. Delightful. Ice Princess

My Sound of Music Moment

Pattern: Anna bodice from ByHandLondon with Elisalex shaping on the back bodice and arm scyes. Emery dress by Christine Haynes skirt and pockets

Fabric: Liberty of London Hesketh seasonal purchased from Patchwork on Central

Locket: A Skulk of Foxes

Hair Flower: Gardens of Whimsy

Photos: By Bruce

Another Day

January 9, 2016 by Pips

Black and White

It’s another day. Just like any other. No resolutions, no commitments, no word for the year. It is me and only me. And that is gift enough to continue along my journey.

Black and White – Hemline Finished with Lace

My preference is to continue how I am. Evolving in my own time and breathing. I don’t think one can ask for more than that.

Black and White

Apart from the safe return of kitty, which of course needed to be asked and finally happened! The distress of a lost kitty over the holiday period was horrendous. Panda Wine, my indoors princess, has demonstrated that she does have the street smarts after an escapade saw her living on the streets for 8 days (including a 40 degree day!). She reappeared at the back of the house, a little lighter and somewhat exhausted, but incredibly happy to be home. Sweet relief. My grey shadow and sewing companion has returned, so I may continue.

Black and White – Mullet Hem (pronounced Moulee Hem)

Which leads us to this dress. Oh this dress. It has been floating in the ether for some time and I finally committed to redrafting the bodice of my favourite Anna to bring it into 2016.

Black and White

I retraced the Anna bodice, and then laid the Elisalex over the top (making sure to overlap seam allowances on the princess seams) and redrafted the arm scye front and back and redrafted the back neckline.

Original Anna Bodice: 17+ and Well Loved

Anna Bodice with Elisalex Laid Over

Annalex with Anna Darts and Elisalex Armscye and Back Neckline

Annalex Meets Flora: So Close!

The Flora skirt needs a 1.5cm adjustment to allow for side seam of Annalex bodice to match. + 1.5cm on side seam of front skirt and -1.5cm on side seam of back skirt. Other than that it eased well onto the bodice.

Black and White

My love of the Anna dress is well noted and those under bust darts do wonders for the girl with small beewbs. The redrafting gives it potential for another 17 dresses, with variations on skirts to fill another half of my wardrobe. This version uses the Flora skirt. By Hand London you are the gift that keeps on giving. Thank you M’ladies!

Black and White – Vintage Bracelet and Cameo Engagement Ring

This dress also has the seal of approval from Bruce. And I quote: “You should really blog this one.” Welcome to the #manattractor .

Black and White

Curtsey

Photos by Bruce. Vintage jewellery purchased from JeanJeanVintage on Etsy. Fabric given by Winding Bobbin. Tights from Wolford. Shoes from Camper. Parasol from Gallery Serpentine.

Panda Wine – Safe and Resting

Belle of her own Ball

December 22, 2015 by Pips

Death Dress

This dress was purchased from a witchy little store down an alley way off Smith Street in Fitzroy circa 1998. I fell in love with the autumnal colours, the soft worn silk and that it had been a wedding dress in a previous incarnation. It was $120 and I paid it off over several weeks whilst studying at uni and working two jobs. bd19

Death Dress

Sadly, as this dress is extra tiny, it only ever fit when I was really ill. And I’m too old to be really ill just to wear my favourite dress. Over the past 17 years I’ve worn it a handful of times, christmas lunch, an airline fancy dress (domestic flying faerie) and in the bathtub. So it’s been hanging in my wardrobe waiting for the day I die, marked as my death dress to be buried with me. Morbid, yes. But also thinking of others. One thing they needn’t worry about for my funeral. I also have a play list of my favourite songs (eclectic of course with Tori, Trent, The Muppets, A Seated Craft) and a door list of who is not allowed. Again, my party and I’ll do it my way.

Death Dress Deconstructed

I took the step of deconstructing the dress with an unpick and a cup of tea. I don’t know why but I find it soothing to pull things apart and break them down to their smallest parts. It’s also lovely to look at another seamstresses work and find how they constructed and which sections were completed by hand and which were machined.

Crimson Peak Costuming – I need to recreate that belt!

Continuing with my theme of inspiration from film and literature, I recently fell for Crimson Peak. I love gothic tales, and the costuming was breathtaking. I was sorely tempted by some of those sleeves… with the added bonus of #manrepeller. And that belt. Inspired. This film comes second to Pans Labyrinth, my favourite film. It scares me silly as it’s like someone took a peek into my nightmares and put them on the screen. Disturbing on both accounts.

After the deconstruction, I decided on a cami top with Irish Lace work that I found at Lilypond, and a Brumby midi skirt again with vintage lace purchased from same. I reused the silk lining that had been dyed with the original dress. Already I’ve worn both pieces more often than the original dress. And creating two outfits for two birthday outings makes me smile and my heart sing. Except for below, because I am also serious in my quest for gothling.

I’ve not too many words today, so I shall leave you with these pictures of the day before and the actual birth date. Post to follow for the Elisalex dress and High Tea Adventures.

A quick note on the day before. Bruce and I watched James Bond at the cinema (first time in many years going to the pictures together) and when we came out the question was posed from Bruce: So what did you think? My response: Pattern matching! Why would they do that?! 2cm off on the back right bodice panel. What were they thinking???? The horror! Some things cannot be unseen. And that villain really reminded me of Dr Evil….

Day One:
bd7 bd9 bd10

Day Two:

bd2 bd3 bd4 bd5

Photo’s by Bruce. Straight hair by The Jim. Black skirt: Gabriola from Sewaholic. Parasol from Gallery Serpentine. Hair flowers from Garden of Whimsy. Black top: repurposed Trelise Cooper silk dress shortened and worn in reverse. Shoes from Duckfeet. Lace from Lilypond.

Outakes: Lady girl and ouch my finger.

Far from the Madding Crowd

November 10, 2015 by Pips

Far from the Madding Crowd

I love books. Real paper and ink books that are old and have that old book scent. I can get lost for hours reading. It appears (to me) we have moved away from the art of long story telling that includes miniscule detail, comment on society, in-depth discussion of clothing, the landscape and the complexity of human relationships in painstaking detail. I think the Gold Finch was the most modern book over 400 pages I’ve read in recent times. Caught up with fast fashion, fast food, fast writing. Through my readings I have learnt it is reasonable for me to stand my ground and not bend to the will of others. And I continue to learn! Bathsheba has recently become another heroine who has stolen my heart and increased my courage.

Far from the Madding Crowd

I hold a copy of Far From the Madding Crowd somewhere in my home but have yet to read it. I need to commit. However before I commit, I need to locate it…. Classic novels I have made it through include Les Miserables, Anna Karenina, Crime and Punishment, Tess of the d’Urbervilles, The Count of Monte Cristo, The Mill on the Floss, Jane Eyre. Authors including George Elliot, Leo Tolstoy, Emily and Charlotte Bronte, Jane Austen, Thomas Hardy, Fyodor Dostoyevsky.

Far from the Madding Crowd

I am going to exclude Gone with the Wind in this category (tried to re read recently, it was impossible), however it requires mention as it was the first book I read that didn’t have the happy ending. I cried for weeks (literally) because Rhett decided enough was enough. Scarlett and I were devastated. I even based my debutante ball dress the dress that she wore for barbecue.

Far from the Madding Crowd

I adore Russian literature, and have a long love for classic texts with complex characters. English classic literature is a close second. And I love collecting the older books that have previously been owned by others. I was the custodian of the most beautiful copy of Anna Karenina printed in the 1960’s on the thinest of paper with the smallest of type. Unfortunately my Burmese cat, Isaac, chose to place it in the fish bowl. He looked me in the eye and with one foul swoop of his paw my precious book landed in the truly murky waters. Sadly the book did not survive, and I believe the fish was later the victim of murder or assisted suicide by said cat. He was a cat that only I could love.

Far from the Madding Crowd

Some of these titles have been made into spectacular movies and mini-series. The Beautiful Lie currently screening on ABC is stunning. A modern take on Anna Karenina set in contemporary Australia. The script is beautiful and the costuming divine. Colin Firth as Mr Darcy always. No explanation required. Jane Eyre was breathtaking with Mia Wasikowska.

Far from the Madding Crowd – Elisalex bodice detail with false placket and no buttons

I watched Far from the Madding Crowd several months ago, and whilst taking in the story and the scenery, I started to plot new additions to my wardrobe based on Bathsheba’s daily farm wear. The long sweeping skirts, deep shades of indigo, the independent attitude she so wonderfully displayed.

Far from the Madding Crowd – back detail

Bathsheba is another heroine I can add to my list of vintage literature girl crushes.

Far from the Madding Crowd – lost the sheep, tending the grapes

My Gabriola skirt was the perfect pattern made in the softest Merchant and Mills linen purchased from Stitch 56. At the same time I found the block printed cotton also by Merchant and Mills for the top. I had two to choose from and decided upon the lighter for the Elisalex bodice with added peplum (drafted using the circle skirt app from By Hand London, recommend highly). I love the shaping of this bodice, having made the dress with an Anna skirt several times. The addition of the peplum suited perfectly, however it does act as a normal circle skirt would out in nature and there was much belly button flashing when the wind gusted. The second piece was used for the head scarf and a Tiny Pocket Tank.

Far from the Madding Crowd – Where the Sheep?

Far from the Madding Crowd – There they Be!

The title of the book comes from the poem Elergy Written in the Country Churchyard by Thomas Gray:

Far from the madding crowd’s ignoble strife
Their sober wishes never learn’d to stray;
Along the cool sequester’d vale of life
They kept the noiseless tenor of their way.

I try to escape the madding crowd from time to time through dress ups, film, art and literature.

What inspires you?

Curtsy,

Photos by Bruce. Location at Clyde Park Winery. Merchant and Mills fabric purchased from Stitch 56. Shoes from Duckfeet. Flower hair piece from Gardens of Whimsy.

All film pictures remain copyrighted to their respective original owners. I had difficulty referencing some, so please let me know and I will add the appropriate acknowledgement/link.

Frocktober: Raising Money, Awareness and Fabulous Frocks

October 21, 2015 by Pips

This post is sponsored by the wonderful women from The Drapery, who in supporting Froctober and the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation, gifted me the gorgeous Nani Iro fabric for my dress. The Drapery is a fabric store located in Adelaide, South Australia, that stocks carefully selected natural fibre fabrics (including Liberty, Nani Iro and amazing linens) and indie patterns. All opinions expressed remain my own.

Froctober at the Drapery

Hello and welcome to the wonderful month of October! You can expect serious frockage, unseasonably hot weather and a plethora of days raising awareness for some of the many causes that are often funded by, and rely on, the good will of our community.

Froctober Emery Dress

One of the main events held this month is Froctober, where ladies (and gents) frock up to raise much needed funds for research into ovarian cancer. It is reported that one woman dies every 10 hours from ovarian cancer and there is still no early detection test. Terrible. Women are normally diagnosed at the later stages of this disease, when the cancer has spread to other organs in the body. This means a significant decrease in the chances of overcoming this cancer. Early detection is key to treating and surviving this. Frocks around Australia are taking this seriously, and are being used to raise money for this much needed research.

Froctober Menu

At this point in time, the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation (OCRF) does not receive government funding, and relies on donations and fundraising from the community to develop an early detection test. I am proud to report that along with three of my colleagues at work, we raised $125 which will go directly to the OCRF. I also managed to discuss the fundraising and its importance with senior management by stating: “I’m raising money for ovarian cancer research, because, ovaries: where would we be without them?”. He looked at me for a second with head to the side, dropped some money in the jar and then quietly backed away…

If you would like to donate directly, you can do so here. I would post you cookies in exchange for donations, however they may end up as crumbs in the post.

The Froctober Spread: $125 Raised, Sugar Coma Achieved

So. Awareness raised. Let us move onto the frock.

Froctober Emery Dress

Behold, my new Emery Dress with self-drafted skirt, made in the most beautiful Nani Iro double gauze, and lined in sultry silk. It is truly like wearing a whisper that only I can hear. Swish and swoosh, like the leaves gently rustling in the spring breeze.

Froctober Emery Dress – Inside Out – Soft Focus

I started by using the Emery bodice, adding a centre back seam to capture the selvage of the the Nani Iro, and then finishing off with a self-drafted pleated, wrap skirt. The dress is lined in silk, using the Emery skirt pattern with some of the width taken out to reduce bulk at the waist.

Froctober Emery Dress

I created the skirt pattern by taking apart one of my oldest and favourite RTW dresses and using it as a template to create the pleats. I vividly remember the day I purchased it. Firstly because it was incredibly expensive for me at the time, and secondly because when I mentioned to Bruce I might be indulging in a pricy dress, it was given the ok if I bought home a chicken. Chicken was delivered, dress was purchased: a worthy exchange. It has been worn lovingly for over 7 years and was still in admirable shape, save for the highlighter pen marks. I’ve been wanting to recreate this for years, but didn’t have the heart to unstitch that dress and be left without it.

Froctober Emery Dress

Luckily I found another version (in purple no less!) on eBay so was able to take the original apart. There were so many things to love about my old dress, including the details of the metal adornments (lovingly restitched onto the newly made dress), the hem (again reused on my Emery dress) and the number of well placed stitches that held it together over time. The thing with properly made garments is they take time to deconstruct as well as construct. Not the typical pull one thread and the entire piece falls apart. It took hours to undo, it was so well made.

Froctober Emery Dress

The pleats sit in a most pleasing fashion on the derriere. Top stitched down by a 9cm long rectangle, they hold fast across the bottom before gently flaring out. This also makes for excellent twirlability.

Froctober Emery Dress – Twirling in the Veggie Patch

I also put in a side zip. Revelation! It is so lovely to zip the side without having to do the wiggle dance involved with centre back seam closures.

Froctober Emery Dress – So Many Bubbles Blown, Not a Single One in Frame!

I also had the opportunity to try out my fancy new shoes. I think they will be perfect for sitting down and indulging in high tea. They are definitely not made for walking. I felt like a baby giraffe on stilts.

Froctober Emery Dress + Fancy Shoes

So a beautiful dress for a well deserving cause. Sadly this particular print is now out of stock, however there are a number of other equally beautiful Nani Iro fabrics in-store and I’m informed by a well placed source that a new shipment is on the way. The Drapery is also offering 10% off combined fabric and pattern purchases until the end of October with $2 from each combined purchase being donated to ORCF. Support research, save money and buy beautiful fabric. Sounds like an excellent deal to me!

Froctober Emery Dress

For other Froctober blog posts, see The Drapery here, here and here, and also the ever stylish and beautiful Blogless Anna, here.

Curtsey and may we find early detection for ovary health soon. Because literally, we wouldn’t be here without them ; ).

Photos by Bruce. Nani Iro fabric gifted from The Drapery. Hair flowers by Garden of Whimsy. Shoes from Christian Louboutin. Tights from Wolford. Marrimeko parasol from Kiitos. Lack of bubbles presented by B1 and B2.

Dress Interupted

September 24, 2015 by Pips

This is a sponsored post – my first!

Gallery Serpentine is a unique corsetry & alternative fashion emporium in Sydney, Australia. They carry a huge range of alternative clothing and accessories and curate an eclectic mix of gothic and steampunk wear. The following product was gifted to me in exchange for review after they happened upon my blog earlier this year. All opinions expressed are my own.

Corset Refresher

Hello and Greetings!

How is it that the first half of this year dragged its sorry feet for sooooo long and then July hit and the year is almost over! I missed August completely, although my personal records indicate I did participate in a number of activities. I’m still trying to adjust to it being the end of September…

Which leads me to my next elaborate project. A dress for my upcoming high tea to celebrate a little milestone birthday. Fifteen of the most lovely ladies sipping Pimms, eating cucumber sandwiches and devouring eclairs will gather and celebrate what is now no longer considered middle age.

Panda Wine Approves of the Outcome

I’ve been pondering this dress for a good six months, and finally inspiration was forthcoming. I’m decommissioning a 1950s cream lace dress that, even after alterations, didn’t quite have the right fit. I will combine it with a contrasting lace bodice using the Elisalex bodice from By Hand London. The challenge was finding a vintage fabric that would contrast as a bodice and be of an age that complimented the original skirt.

Lovely Lace

I found the perfect fabric at the bottom of a remnants bin in a store at the end of an alley way. After getting lost several times (true story). All for the (unmarked, unfolded, scrunched up, powerfully scented) price of $20. Lovely.

When I got home, I laid out the new addition to my stash, and found it to be rather more pungent than originally thought. I washed it three times in wool mix and hung it outside so it could enjoy the sunshine and a brisk breeze. Unfortunately the mustiness permeating the fabric was entrenched and stubbornly resisted fading.

Corset Refresher with Vintage Singer

So I turned to the Corset Refresher which had been sent to me by Gallery Serpentine. It’s true purpose is to refresh corsetry that cannot be washed due to boning and construction. A light spray is applied after every 3-4 wears to give it a little refresh. It can also be used on bed linen to liven things up between washes. It was designed by Cult of Scent exclusively for Gallery Serpentine and is based on an eau de cologne recipe. Plus it has antibacterial properties which really effects the the scent of your clothes, unlike spraying with perfume. I like to employ my lateral thinking from time to time and as my corset collection stands at a total of one and I don’t wear it regularly, I had to wait a while until an opportunity presented itself.

Corset Refresher

It specifically warns against using on lighter coloured fabrics, but I’d found myself at the point of employing the scent to see what the results were, participate in some research on the interwebs for treating vintage fabrics (which I didn’t have the time or inclination to do) or dispose of it. I took the radical path.

I used the parisian method of application. That is: spray the mist into the air at ankle, knee and waist height and pass the fabric though the mist to avoid concentrated areas of liquid forming on the fabric. If it was perfume I was applying to myself, I would use the same principal: spray at several heights in front of the body, and with a certain graceful and dignified élan walk through the mist and finish off with a little hand flapping once the passage had been completed. Dramatic, but effective as I don’t like to apply perfume directly to my skin. Does anyone else apart from Boo and me do this?

The Dress Post Treatment with Outfit Accessories

Once treated, I allowed an hour for it to be draped inside and then again let it out on the line in for the brisk breeze to do its work.

Surprisingly, it lifted the pungent mustiness which had been persisting as part of the distinctive character of this fabric. I didn’t think anything would shift the odour, which I assumed would persist until the end of creation. The scent of the corset refresher is fresh and not at all floral or sweet. The bottle describes the essential oil ingredients as being organic lime, organic tea tree and cedar oil in an alcohol base. And that’s exactly what my fabric now smells like. There is still the tiniest hint of must, but it is now ready for cutting and stitching up. And possibly another treatment before the big day.

Dress Interupted

I also have several other pieces of clothing that I don’t wash due to the age of the fabric or the fact they would otherwise have to be dry-cleaned. This includes my frocktails dress. It will only be worn occasionally and I like to think that I wear my clothes lightly, leading to a longer life span. I’m not a big fan of dry cleaning, and often with my everyday wear I find that a good airing sees them through several wears. I try to be kind to my clothes and the environment and not overwash, especially when I don’t have to. All the smalls, delicates and B1 and B2’s do get washed regularly though. There is no avoiding that!

Corset Refresher

So I managed to rescue what I though was doomed fabric using the corset refresher. And I figure that if it worked so well on a piece of fabric I was about to give up on, it will work wonderfully on my clothes that need a little scented lift and not the full cleaning experience. And as I said before, it’s not just for corsetry. It is destined to be used on a few other items I have lazing around in my wardrobe. I think it will brighten (or darken, depending on your goth status) the scent on a variety of different fabrics. And it’s perfect when you don’t need to do a full clean, or can get away with spot cleaning. So if you have some special clothing that you avoid washing for fear of damage, I would recommend this. A little scent goes a long way. I will certainly be using it again, but next time will be sizing up for the refill from Gallery Serpentine.

To have a further read or to explore the Gallery Serpentine website, you can peruse at your leisure here. There is a world of gothic goodness, parasols and corsetry ready to discover.

Curtsy

Photo’s by Pips, Corset Refresher supplied by Gallery Serpentine, original lace dress purchased from Dear Golden, vintage Singer purchased from A Piece of Cloth.

Post Script: Gallery Serpentine actually found my post here when I went on my adventure to the Antipodean Steam Punk Exhibition last year. Some of their corsetry and garments had been curated in the exhibition along with a number of other amazingly talented gothic and steampunk artisans. I was a little honoured they read my post as I have made several parasol purchases from them, stalked them online for several years and have always intended to visit their store. I just need to get to Sydney. And I’m sure I could get away with wearing this to work…

Frocktails: Flora Dress in Vintage Velvet and Silk

August 23, 2015 by Pips

Frocktails Dress at Brooklyn Arts Hotel

I went to Melbourne Frocktails. I did, it’s true! I was a little surprised myself. I’m of the habit of signing up to things I’ve not really looked into or know anyone who is going. Still I’m yet to attend a random event I’ve signed up for and have anything but a wonderful time. I haven’t been able to do any night events for some time because of the ME/CFS, but with recent improvements, I made it. I’m going to give myself a hooray for that success. Pleased with self!

Frocktails: All Laid Out and Ready to Go. That Sounds Quite Rude. Promise It Was Just the Dress!

I was lucky to procure a ticket for Frocktails and as it got closer to the date I began to realise I knew a number of these talented seamstresses through Instagram and I’ve had sewing and movie dates with two in real life! So that put me at ease a little. Internet dating with seamstresses!

Flora Dress Insides

The talented Kat from All the Whimsical Things organised the event, and she was well deserving of flowers, cocktails and fabric for her wonderful efforts in organising such a special event.

Brooklyn Arts Hotel

I stayed at Brooklyn Arts Hotel which is my home away from home when I’m in Melbourne. All the staff know me (yes, my reputation and sewing proceeds me) and it’s always like returning to my favourite miniature castle where there is endless tea, toast and chatter if you are so inclined. They are always happy to oblige me when I get stuck in my dress with my zip and can’t wiggle my way out. Which happened when I got back from Frocktails and thought I’d have to sleep in my dress. And also the day before…

Now let’s move onto some pictures of Flora, taken at St Peter’s and St Paul’s Catholic church on Saturday. I love churches.

The pictures are mixed in with some construction notes and wind swept hair.

The dress I made is the Flora from By Hand London. I purchased this velvet from Jen at A Piece of Cloth a number of years ago and it’s been sitting out of the stash and wrapped in tissue with its own shelf, it was so precious.

Flora Dress

The story behind the fabric was it was purchased from Liberty of London, around 50-60 years ago. Not a Liberty fabric per se, however another line they were selling at the time. It was in perfect condition, and had the most gorgeous nap to pet.

Flora Dress

With the help of Rennae from winding_bobbin and her cutting table, it took around three hours to lay out. The skirt is quite voluminous and needed to be cut on the bias to get the full length, to which I’d added an additional 15cm all round. I’m shy about my knees. I also used a beautiful silk satin from Joys Fabric Warehouse which I was able to cut on grain for the skirt lining and a black silk twill for the bodice.

Flora Twirls

I took my time, making a toile with curtain fabric which actually looked ok (!), completed a small bust adjustment to remove the fabric underneath these small beeewbs of mine, and added the 3cm length to the middle of the bodice.

Flora Dress With SBA Toile

I then waited at least three weeks to cut into the fabric proper to make sure that I was sure. Which I was, just needed to make sure.

Flora Dress Progress

Everything was hand basted before being stitched on the machine. I love hand basting. I loved making this dress. Whilst it’s not really time efficient for most of my projects, I shall be doing more as I start to explore all the silks, satins and laces. Must start saving for that…

Flora Dress with Memorial to the Churches Reverend

I can recommend using a roller foot to sew the velvet. I did a significant amount of research about sewing velvet and whilst many recommend using a walking foot, my local dealer of habby and notions, Heights Sewing Centre, suggested using a roller foot. It was 1/6th of the price and didn’t leave a mark on the velvet at all. Most happy. I thought cutting the skirt on the bias would cause all sorts of drama, but after a week it didn’t drop a centimetre, (although the same could not be said for the silk…).

Curls and Flower Crowns

I have to say there were no dramas making this dress, no tears. I did unpick one small part where the bodice joined the skirt and the dart/pleat join was off by about 3mm. Just not acceptable. And then when I restitched it I accidentally caught up the skirt fabric but after a deep breath and some more unpicking it was fine. No marks on the velvet and the dart matching bothered me no more.

Flora Dress and Silk Horse Hair Hem

I used horse hair in the hem which I LOVED. No circle skirt should go without it. Volume, swirly, twirling. It promises and delivers all these things. I also made a Coppelia Cardi by Paper Cut Patterns. This was number 4. Fits all the cardi criteria.

Flora dress with Copellia Cardi

Frocktails itself was a wonderful night held at the Ra Bar on Collins St. Plus I lasted a whole 2 and 3/4 hours. A record for the sleepy damsel who had already napped for three hours that afternoon.

Flora Dress with Necklace Detail

It was a little dark at the venue so photos were hard to get, but I finally met my gorgeous friend Jen from The Stitcher and Gatherer. We had hugs and cuddles and chats in the corner. It was so lovely to finally meet her and know that she is that wonderful woman I know off IG and we are friends. I also meet with some other gorgeous ladies. So challenging not to call them by their IG names! But the faces were all smiling and familiar. Rennae and I are now having semi regular sewing dates. All the yay!

Frocktails: Jen, Bar Money and Rennae

The signature cocktail, The Seam Ripper, was delicious (even though I’m not supposed to have any alcohol, it was worth it), the food was amazing and the wait staff were fabulous.

Christian Louboutin Window

The Bar was also situated next to Christian Louboutin. I was frocked up, didn’t have my credit card on me and I was going to sweep into their store and try on their shoes. I did. Nude pumps with a 10cm heel you shall be mine one one day. 40th birthday coming up, making own dress, requiring shiny shoes for high tea. I shall return. It was like angels were kissing my feet. They also had a rather fabulous window that (with permission) we photographed. Oversized sewing spools, needles, pattern pieces, teddy bears and scissors. It’s as though they knew we were coming and needed an enchanted entrance. I did note that they bolted the door as soon as we walked out. Obviously they were intimidated by my Flora dress and 7 year old patent leather shoes. I can be scary like that…

Flora Dress

I had a wonderful weekend away, didn’t completely overextend the credit card, and am looking forward to catching up again.

Until next time, curtsey.

Post Script: As Bruce was taking taking photos at the church, a man was standing back watching us. I was concerned he thought I might be not showing the proper respect for the church and it’s history. I’m always mindful of these things. I caught his eye, but he waved at me to continue so I twirled until I almost fell over. Which for the record was 2.5 times.

Wedding in 1957

After that he approached us and from a plastic bag he produced an aged photo album. He opened it and showed me a picture of him and his wife on their wedding day, 58 years and one week ago standing on the very steps where I was twirling. He showed me the pictures of his wedding and his beautiful wife who has since passed. I cried.

The Wedding Door

His photos were so beautiful and to share that moment with me was one of those unexpected poignant moments in time where generations cross over and a special moment is shared. I didn’t catch his name, he was attending a ceremony at the church which is why he was carrying his photographs. But he did give me permission to take this photo and share it with you. I wish I had have caught his name…

Photos by Bruce. Flower crown from Gardens of Whimsey. Tights from Wolford. Shoes from Camper. Lace on undies from Lily Pond. Necklace from Quirk Collective.

Anna-mania

July 30, 2015 by Pips

International Anna Party – Queue Excitement

What a wonderful turn out we had for the #internationalannaparty !

International Anna Party – Your Hosts with Fur Kidlets. Panda Wine has no idea what lies behind her.

Thank you so much for attending our little soiree, and twirling with us over the weekend on Instagram. What a delight to see so many familiar and new faces join in to celebrate Elle’s birthday party and the sewing collective as a whole.

International Anna Party

As Elle described is so succinctly: Best. Party. Ever.

International Anna Party

Elle, Ute and myself would like to thank you all for joining in the frivolities. To each and every one of you, your presence not only lit up our virtual ballroom, your conversation sparkled and was full of genuine admiration of frocks and unquestionable dedication to the craft that is sewing.

International Anna Party – Tea Time

Such a pleasure to see so many Anna dresses in a assortment of lengths and fabrics. And all the compliments! Everyone looked amazing and it was fascinating to see the many interpretations of the one pattern. If I hadn’t just clocked up number 17 (!) I would have already started another.

International Anna Party

Congratulations to Hannah for taking out first prize. What a stunning women combined with a spectacular dress. You must go and read more about it here.