Sewing the Alessi Bias Dress – Wool, Warmth & Effortless Drape

There’s a quiet kind of magic in bias-cut garments — the way they drape, move, and mould to the body without clinging. The Alessi Dress by Tessuti captures that magic beautifully, and sewing it in a soft wool made it the perfect transition piece for cooler weather. It’s elegant, uncomplicated, and exactly the kind of dress I want to reach for again and again.

The Pattern

The Alessi is a midi-length, bias-cut dress with clean lines and minimal fuss. It features a bias-bound neckline and armhoes, shaped back darts for subtle definition, and a beautifully flared hem that sways just so when you walk. No bust darts, no side zipper — just clever pattern cutting and a flattering shape that does the work for you.

This is my kind of minimalist: modern, wearable, and gently tailored without being too fitted. A similar fit to the Sadie Slip dress which I so adore.

The Fabric

I sewed my Alessi in a lightweight wool from Tessuti that I picked up in their recent sale — warm without being heavy, with a soft hand and beautiful drape. It’s a bit of a departure from the usual Liberty I use, but it worked wonderfully. The bias cut gives it fluidity, while the wool adds structure and warmth — ideal for layering in winter.

The Sewing Process

This is a project that rewards slow, mindful sewing. I let my wool rest flat overnight before cutting to let it settle on the bias. I stay-stitched the neckline and armholes immediately to prevent any stretching, and took my time handling the cut pieces — bias cuts love to shift if you’re not careful! I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene. I successfully made two Alessi dresses in Liberty Tana Law at Sewaway on the Kings birthday weekend without it so I risked it with the wool. I think it paid off.

The neckline and armholes are finished with a clean bias binding (one of my favourite details), and the instructions were, as always with Tessuti, clear and well-paced. The back darts provide just enough shaping to avoid the dreaded “sack” look, while still letting the fabric drape naturally around the body.

And — one of the best parts — no zipper! The dress slips on easily, especially in a fabric with a bit of give. Fewer fastenings, more elegance.

I chose to overlock my seams instead of French seaming due to the bulk of the wool which in hindsight was the right decision. The directions have you overlock them, I prefer to French seam bias dresses. I hand stitched the hem listening to Gene Harris live at Maybeck Hall. A lovely way to finish of a cosy dress.

And can we pause for a moment to appreciate the pattern placement on the front. Complete fluke as I wasn’t paying any attention to detail when laying out my fabric, but a happy coincidence none the less.

Adjustments

• I didn’t add any length to the pattern, I found it was long enough for my liking without alteration but note it looks longer on the models.
• I let the hem hang for a day before finishing, just to allow the bias to settle evenly.
• No alterations to fit — the pattern is beautifully drafted.
• One thing I would note was that the pattern was copy shop only not AO so I couldn’t print it at OfficeWorks and when I tried to print it at home on A4 I couldn’t get the 100% to match up with the test box so I gave up and went into Tessuti and bought a hard copy of the pattern.

Final Thoughts

This wool Alessi has quickly become one of my favourite handmade pieces. It feels grown-up but unfussy, tailored but easy to wear. I can layer it with a fitted body suit or long-sleeve tee underneath, throw on a cardigan or coat over the top, and head out feeling instantly put together. I’ve even got to the nana stage of wearing a slip under dresses and yes they were onto something!

It’s proof that simple shapes, when paired with the right fabric, can be the most chic. I’m already planning another one for spring — maybe in a washed silk or cotton lawn. Did someone say Liberty?

Tips for Sewing the Alessi in Wool:

• Let your fabric rest before cutting — bias cuts love to shift.
• Stay-stitch early to avoid neckline or armhole stretching. I went rogue and didn’t use the tear away vilene as recommended.
• Handle your fabric gently and press as you go — wool is very responsive.
• Let the dress hang before hemming for the most even finish.

Have you thought about making the Alessi dress this winter? If you do, comment below or tag me when you have completed your dress at @magdalenesmuse.

Happy sewing,
Pips

Dress Pattern: the Alessi bias dress by Tessuti Patterns

Fabric: Bensimmon Check wool by Tessuti

Boots: From Scarlet Jones. No longer available

Tights: Velvet deluxe 66 from Wolford

Locket: by JeanJean Vintage